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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Muzzle brakes
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<blockquote data-quote="Coyboy" data-source="post: 638343" data-attributes="member: 3733"><p>OK just some follow up, i am getting a few PMs where guys have had issues with various brakes they have, I am copy and pasteing this reply so that the majority of PM's will be answered, and it won't create more.</p><p></p><p>The Brake reffered to earlier that Kirby installed on the 6.5wsm, WAS NOT a DE brake,</p><p>It was somthing Kirby used early on, and I dought he still uses it. </p><p></p><p>Text quote;</p><p>Karl, it was not a DE brake.</p><p></p><p>But if you are seeing a problem I would check your brakes clearance, it is possible, under the right coditions, that hardened brakes can have this happen to them, with high intensity cartriges, pistol length barrels, or certain powders. I currently cut a small chamfer, on the clearance hole, on the side of the baffle that recieves the blast, during the boring process during instalation, this eliminates the issue of the formation bur rolling over into the clearance hole, even under extreame conditions.</p><p></p><p>to check it look very close at the clearance holes edge, that recieves the blast, it can occur on all 3 baffles, not just the first, if you have pin gauges you can measure your clearance, should be .020" over bore dia. minimum.</p><p></p><p>If there is a problem there you can correct it yourself, take a 1/4" brass rod, cut a slit in one end to hold a small pc of emery cloth. chuck it in a drill and hone out the ID hole thru the brake, this will fracture off the little burs with-out increasing the thru holes dia. by more than .001"</p><p></p><p>MAKE SURE YOU PROTECT THE CROWN if you do this with the brake on the rifle. A couple wood tounge depressors slid in the first port opening closest to the crown will act as a bump stop.</p><p></p><p>I hope this helps you.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Coyboy, post: 638343, member: 3733"] OK just some follow up, i am getting a few PMs where guys have had issues with various brakes they have, I am copy and pasteing this reply so that the majority of PM's will be answered, and it won't create more. The Brake reffered to earlier that Kirby installed on the 6.5wsm, WAS NOT a DE brake, It was somthing Kirby used early on, and I dought he still uses it. Text quote; Karl, it was not a DE brake. But if you are seeing a problem I would check your brakes clearance, it is possible, under the right coditions, that hardened brakes can have this happen to them, with high intensity cartriges, pistol length barrels, or certain powders. I currently cut a small chamfer, on the clearance hole, on the side of the baffle that recieves the blast, during the boring process during instalation, this eliminates the issue of the formation bur rolling over into the clearance hole, even under extreame conditions. to check it look very close at the clearance holes edge, that recieves the blast, it can occur on all 3 baffles, not just the first, if you have pin gauges you can measure your clearance, should be .020" over bore dia. minimum. If there is a problem there you can correct it yourself, take a 1/4" brass rod, cut a slit in one end to hold a small pc of emery cloth. chuck it in a drill and hone out the ID hole thru the brake, this will fracture off the little burs with-out increasing the thru holes dia. by more than .001" MAKE SURE YOU PROTECT THE CROWN if you do this with the brake on the rifle. A couple wood tounge depressors slid in the first port opening closest to the crown will act as a bump stop. I hope this helps you. [/QUOTE]
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