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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Muzzle brakes badly botched, what to do.
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1155931" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>All I can say is WOW. </p><p></p><p>I looked at all of the pictures and saw nothing that was done right.</p><p></p><p>1 = The barrel threads should be cut on a lathe, and the shoulder that the brake seats on so it will be square so the brake will make up solid. </p><p></p><p>2 = The finished bore should be cut with a boring bar so it will be concentric to the bore. (You can drill a pilot hole, as long as it is no larger than it needs to be to get the boring bar in it. Bore diameter should not be more than .025 larger than the bullet diameter and not less than .020 larger than the bullet diameter to be effective.</p><p></p><p>3 = the back of the brake should be tapered down to the barrel size or at least chamfered if the owner likes it that way.</p><p></p><p>4 = The finish is very poor and should be polished to remove the file marks. (I am sure the brakes did not come like that).</p><p></p><p>5 = the barrel tenon is two long for the brake and protrudes inside to far. (The crown should be at least one caliber away from the face of the first baffle or at least flush with the back of the rear port</p><p>for best performance.</p><p></p><p>6 = The finish is very bad and should be bead blasted and the barrel and brake should be coated with the same system in order to match.</p><p></p><p>If the bore of the muzzle brake is more than .025 larger than the bullet diameter the brake should be replaced with new brakes and given to a competent smith for a proper installation.</p><p></p><p>The rejected brakes can be salvaged by using them on a larger caliber and bored correctly so you wont loose everything you have spent.</p><p></p><p>Sorry about your troubles.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1155931, member: 2736"] All I can say is WOW. I looked at all of the pictures and saw nothing that was done right. 1 = The barrel threads should be cut on a lathe, and the shoulder that the brake seats on so it will be square so the brake will make up solid. 2 = The finished bore should be cut with a boring bar so it will be concentric to the bore. (You can drill a pilot hole, as long as it is no larger than it needs to be to get the boring bar in it. Bore diameter should not be more than .025 larger than the bullet diameter and not less than .020 larger than the bullet diameter to be effective. 3 = the back of the brake should be tapered down to the barrel size or at least chamfered if the owner likes it that way. 4 = The finish is very poor and should be polished to remove the file marks. (I am sure the brakes did not come like that). 5 = the barrel tenon is two long for the brake and protrudes inside to far. (The crown should be at least one caliber away from the face of the first baffle or at least flush with the back of the rear port for best performance. 6 = The finish is very bad and should be bead blasted and the barrel and brake should be coated with the same system in order to match. If the bore of the muzzle brake is more than .025 larger than the bullet diameter the brake should be replaced with new brakes and given to a competent smith for a proper installation. The rejected brakes can be salvaged by using them on a larger caliber and bored correctly so you wont loose everything you have spent. Sorry about your troubles. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Muzzle brakes badly botched, what to do.
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