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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Mosin nagant bolt problem
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<blockquote data-quote="RT2506" data-source="post: 620398" data-attributes="member: 10178"><p>The varnish off of steel cased ammo will melt and cause the gumming up also. If you are using milsurp ammo be sure and clean the bore with water to get rid of the salts from the corrosive priming even if the seller of the ammo says it is not corrosive most of it is. Also the way that the bolt is designed on the M/N it does not have a lot of torque for lifting and opening that last little bit. Standard training was to lift the bolt up to 2 o'clock and then slap the bolt with the palm of the hand to open it up the rest of the way. Watch the movie Enemy At the Gates. In the part where they are in the fountain and he is shooting the German taking a shower and the others around him you can see him operate the bolt like that. </p><p></p><p>Slug the bore of your rifle with a lead .315 diameter muzzle loader ball or a fishing sinker about that size by driving it from the chamber end out the muzzle with wooden dowel rod pieces cut 6 to 8 inches long dropped on top of each other. Start the ball with the steel cleaning rod and a hammer. Measure between the high spots which will be the groove diameter of your bore. If it comes out .310 to .3105 use .311 diameter bullets. If it comes out between .3105 and .3115 use .312 diameter bullets. They like heavy bullets 174 to 180 gr really well. Best load that I have ever found that shoots great in all models of M/N which I have most of them. 50 grs AA 4350, CCI 200 primer, Prvi or Laupa case, .311 diameter Sierra 174 gr Match King or 180 SP OAL 3.000. If you need a .312 diameter bullet use the Hornady 174 RNSP OAL 2.790 and this is important to best accuracy. Use a Lee Factory Crimp Die on all loads.</p><p></p><p>You can use shims inserted between the action and the stock where the action screws go to raise the action just a little bit and then place a piece of felt cloth 1 inch wide by 6 to 8 inches long wrapped like you would put grip tape on a baseball bat around the barrel about 3 inches back of where it exits the forearm wrapping back toward the action. Place some light oil on this felt which will deter any moisture being held in it and rusting your barrel. This will float the barrel and aline it in the stock. The Finns did this with their sniper rifles to make them more accurate and it works. I have some of the M/Ns that are tack drivers. These rifles look like a farm tool made by a blacksmith but once you get them tuned up they will shoot. Have fun. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RT2506, post: 620398, member: 10178"] The varnish off of steel cased ammo will melt and cause the gumming up also. If you are using milsurp ammo be sure and clean the bore with water to get rid of the salts from the corrosive priming even if the seller of the ammo says it is not corrosive most of it is. Also the way that the bolt is designed on the M/N it does not have a lot of torque for lifting and opening that last little bit. Standard training was to lift the bolt up to 2 o'clock and then slap the bolt with the palm of the hand to open it up the rest of the way. Watch the movie Enemy At the Gates. In the part where they are in the fountain and he is shooting the German taking a shower and the others around him you can see him operate the bolt like that. Slug the bore of your rifle with a lead .315 diameter muzzle loader ball or a fishing sinker about that size by driving it from the chamber end out the muzzle with wooden dowel rod pieces cut 6 to 8 inches long dropped on top of each other. Start the ball with the steel cleaning rod and a hammer. Measure between the high spots which will be the groove diameter of your bore. If it comes out .310 to .3105 use .311 diameter bullets. If it comes out between .3105 and .3115 use .312 diameter bullets. They like heavy bullets 174 to 180 gr really well. Best load that I have ever found that shoots great in all models of M/N which I have most of them. 50 grs AA 4350, CCI 200 primer, Prvi or Laupa case, .311 diameter Sierra 174 gr Match King or 180 SP OAL 3.000. If you need a .312 diameter bullet use the Hornady 174 RNSP OAL 2.790 and this is important to best accuracy. Use a Lee Factory Crimp Die on all loads. You can use shims inserted between the action and the stock where the action screws go to raise the action just a little bit and then place a piece of felt cloth 1 inch wide by 6 to 8 inches long wrapped like you would put grip tape on a baseball bat around the barrel about 3 inches back of where it exits the forearm wrapping back toward the action. Place some light oil on this felt which will deter any moisture being held in it and rusting your barrel. This will float the barrel and aline it in the stock. The Finns did this with their sniper rifles to make them more accurate and it works. I have some of the M/Ns that are tack drivers. These rifles look like a farm tool made by a blacksmith but once you get them tuned up they will shoot. Have fun. :D [/QUOTE]
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Mosin nagant bolt problem
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