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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
modifying bolt shroud on 1903 springfield
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<blockquote data-quote="shortgrass" data-source="post: 426752" data-attributes="member: 24284"><p>Using a Springfield as the basis of a custom is, almost, a thing of the past. I think I'd stick to the firing pin block safety. Sounds like alot of clean-up work after welding and the two different types of steel (welding rod & bolt shroud) my show different colors when blued. Also, welding (complete penetration) on a piece of steel that has been heat treated and tempered will anneal it (make it soft). Warpage form welding might be another concern. If you look closely you will see the firing pin and that knob (what you are calling the cocking piece) are two parts that have been joined together. Don't know if I'd wack that knob off or not. You might look up Ed DeLorge on the web, don't know if he's still around or not. An old school gunsmith who made a complete bolt shroud w/safety like the Win. 70. Pricey, but <em>very</em> nice. I use many Springfields and Mauser '98's in the past, but, a good one, that's not a rusty pirce of junk, is getting too valuable, in it's original form, to convert to a a sporter. And they take alot of extra work (bolt handle, safety, trigger, drilling and tapping, one choice in scope mounts) that is expensive if you can not do the work yourself. The first rifle I ever barreled and stocked (Black Walnut) was a Rock Island. Probably not the best for ones first stock job. Many details to the bottom side of those actions and not flat. Wouldn't trade that rifle for the world. They (Springfields & Mauser '98s) do make a classy sporter if the work is properly executed. Don't modify the bolt shroud or firing pin knob. Sarco used to have parts for Springfields, many were new. I'd get a spare 'this and that' before I started modifing parts. just my 2 cents</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shortgrass, post: 426752, member: 24284"] Using a Springfield as the basis of a custom is, almost, a thing of the past. I think I'd stick to the firing pin block safety. Sounds like alot of clean-up work after welding and the two different types of steel (welding rod & bolt shroud) my show different colors when blued. Also, welding (complete penetration) on a piece of steel that has been heat treated and tempered will anneal it (make it soft). Warpage form welding might be another concern. If you look closely you will see the firing pin and that knob (what you are calling the cocking piece) are two parts that have been joined together. Don't know if I'd wack that knob off or not. You might look up Ed DeLorge on the web, don't know if he's still around or not. An old school gunsmith who made a complete bolt shroud w/safety like the Win. 70. Pricey, but [I]very[/I] nice. I use many Springfields and Mauser '98's in the past, but, a good one, that's not a rusty pirce of junk, is getting too valuable, in it's original form, to convert to a a sporter. And they take alot of extra work (bolt handle, safety, trigger, drilling and tapping, one choice in scope mounts) that is expensive if you can not do the work yourself. The first rifle I ever barreled and stocked (Black Walnut) was a Rock Island. Probably not the best for ones first stock job. Many details to the bottom side of those actions and not flat. Wouldn't trade that rifle for the world. They (Springfields & Mauser '98s) do make a classy sporter if the work is properly executed. Don't modify the bolt shroud or firing pin knob. Sarco used to have parts for Springfields, many were new. I'd get a spare 'this and that' before I started modifing parts. just my 2 cents [/QUOTE]
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modifying bolt shroud on 1903 springfield
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