Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Melting wheel weights for casting bullets?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Kennibear" data-source="post: 1051423" data-attributes="member: 51650"><p>If you can find a chemical supply house or old school apothecary try ammonium chloride. It is like salt but will reduce the dross (trash) into its original metal, that is turn the oxides back to tin, antimony etc. I bought a 1# can from Fisher Scientific years ago and still have half. You can put it in a salt shaker and use it that way. DO NOT USE IT TO FLUX THE METAL IN YOUR FURNACE!!!!!! This stuff is corrosive as acid and will kill your casting furnace the first time you use it. OUTSIDE USE ONLY! The fumes are deadly. Use it in your smelting pot outside only. I have a cast aluminum pot (garage sale $2) and use a camping stove. The ingot moulds are not that much so I have one and made one. </p><p></p><p>The Ammomium Chloride will alloy crude antimony into the lead @ 1000F. Without it you have to get much hotter. I have 140# of first pass electrolytic antimony that has a smidge of arsenic(3%) and traces of silver and gold. It "inoculates" the alloy with arsenic to enhance the water hardening (also known as "chilling the lead"). That source dried up so don't ask for it.</p><p></p><p>If you use straight WW drop from the mould into water. Be careful doing this but I have without problems for decades. Size to final diameter and reheat the bullets to just before melting and drop them into water again. Lube them in a sizing die about 0.002" larger so as not to damage the harden surface. WW done this way are almost as hard as straight Linotype and chilled twice after sizing will be as hard or harder than Linotype. Alox NRA formula all the way. Tried everything else including many "secret formulas" and NRA Alox/Beeswax is consistant and unsurpased. The other lubes try to be just as good but they will never be better. They smoke a little less on firing but that's about it.</p><p></p><p>Get Lyman's book on this and save yourself the learning curve.</p><p></p><p>On my next post we can talk "triple chilled binary eutectic antimony/lead alloy with arsenic and silver/gold inoculations and their hardness".</p><p></p><p>It will be fascinating</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Really.....</p><p></p><p>KB</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Kennibear, post: 1051423, member: 51650"] If you can find a chemical supply house or old school apothecary try ammonium chloride. It is like salt but will reduce the dross (trash) into its original metal, that is turn the oxides back to tin, antimony etc. I bought a 1# can from Fisher Scientific years ago and still have half. You can put it in a salt shaker and use it that way. DO NOT USE IT TO FLUX THE METAL IN YOUR FURNACE!!!!!! This stuff is corrosive as acid and will kill your casting furnace the first time you use it. OUTSIDE USE ONLY! The fumes are deadly. Use it in your smelting pot outside only. I have a cast aluminum pot (garage sale $2) and use a camping stove. The ingot moulds are not that much so I have one and made one. The Ammomium Chloride will alloy crude antimony into the lead @ 1000F. Without it you have to get much hotter. I have 140# of first pass electrolytic antimony that has a smidge of arsenic(3%) and traces of silver and gold. It "inoculates" the alloy with arsenic to enhance the water hardening (also known as "chilling the lead"). That source dried up so don't ask for it. If you use straight WW drop from the mould into water. Be careful doing this but I have without problems for decades. Size to final diameter and reheat the bullets to just before melting and drop them into water again. Lube them in a sizing die about 0.002" larger so as not to damage the harden surface. WW done this way are almost as hard as straight Linotype and chilled twice after sizing will be as hard or harder than Linotype. Alox NRA formula all the way. Tried everything else including many "secret formulas" and NRA Alox/Beeswax is consistant and unsurpased. The other lubes try to be just as good but they will never be better. They smoke a little less on firing but that's about it. Get Lyman's book on this and save yourself the learning curve. On my next post we can talk "triple chilled binary eutectic antimony/lead alloy with arsenic and silver/gold inoculations and their hardness". It will be fascinating Really..... KB [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Melting wheel weights for casting bullets?
Top