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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Mauser 98K Scout LR&H Build - Questions!
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<blockquote data-quote="shortgrass" data-source="post: 1128170" data-attributes="member: 24284"><p>About 90% of what you've listed isn't done to a Mauser '98 in the USA. I don't know about Europe. Face the action, have a 'sporter' bolt handle welded on. Forget the welding. Forget the thread 'truing'. The only time the bolt face is touched is to 'open' it for a magnum cartridge. For best accuracy forget the pre-threaded and chambered barrel, have a blank fit and chambered by a gunsmith that understands Mauser actions. McMillian only makes one stock for the Mauser '98,,, it's a sporter best used with a barrel contour no bigger than a #4. Have new springs installed for the firing pin and the magazine follower. Forget 'chopping' the firing pin, and if you have the ledge on the cocking piece milled back to shorten the firing pin travel it will need to be re-hardened. Any alterations of the firing pin/cocking piece, or replacement of the entire firing pin assembly may cause ignition problems and effect potential accuracy. If you want to try to turn this militay action into a commercial action, do yourself a favor and just buy a commercial action to begin with. I know, I know,,,,, much was done in the past to 'sporterize' military Mauser actions. That's when labor was cheap! I'd not get caught up in the pretty pics on the commercial stock pre-inletters' web sites (like Richards). A good blank will cost as much as their 'higher end' pre-inletted stocks do. Good wood work commands the highest hourly wages of any gunsmithing task. So, the finest wood blank that you can afford should be choosen. A mediocre piece of wood will never be anything more than a mediocre stock. "Ya' can't make a silk purse from a sows' ear". Military Mausers are probably the most expensive actions to use for a custom build because of all the needs to be done to them to sportize them. And then, what do you have, a 'sporterized' military Mauser? There are thousands if not millions of them 'floating' around the USA. Some that have seen some of the highest quality work done to them that command and get prices in the tens of thousands of dollars range (built by known custom gunmakers) to those that are no more than junk, not even worth the value of the action because of mis-drilled holes, welding, chopping,,,,, you name it (Bubbas' finest work! 'cause he read all about it on the internet!)! That said, I have built many rifles using <em>good</em> '98 actions. And have never done any more than face the the front ring, weld on or forge the bolt handle, drill & tap for scope mounts (using a Forester jig, as Tom suggested), installed a custom barrel (from a blank, not pre-threaded and chambered), and custom stocked the barreled action. Don't try to turn it into something it is not. I wouldn't use a Mauser, no matter what banner it wears, if I couldn't do all the work myself!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shortgrass, post: 1128170, member: 24284"] About 90% of what you've listed isn't done to a Mauser '98 in the USA. I don't know about Europe. Face the action, have a 'sporter' bolt handle welded on. Forget the welding. Forget the thread 'truing'. The only time the bolt face is touched is to 'open' it for a magnum cartridge. For best accuracy forget the pre-threaded and chambered barrel, have a blank fit and chambered by a gunsmith that understands Mauser actions. McMillian only makes one stock for the Mauser '98,,, it's a sporter best used with a barrel contour no bigger than a #4. Have new springs installed for the firing pin and the magazine follower. Forget 'chopping' the firing pin, and if you have the ledge on the cocking piece milled back to shorten the firing pin travel it will need to be re-hardened. Any alterations of the firing pin/cocking piece, or replacement of the entire firing pin assembly may cause ignition problems and effect potential accuracy. If you want to try to turn this militay action into a commercial action, do yourself a favor and just buy a commercial action to begin with. I know, I know,,,,, much was done in the past to 'sporterize' military Mauser actions. That's when labor was cheap! I'd not get caught up in the pretty pics on the commercial stock pre-inletters' web sites (like Richards). A good blank will cost as much as their 'higher end' pre-inletted stocks do. Good wood work commands the highest hourly wages of any gunsmithing task. So, the finest wood blank that you can afford should be choosen. A mediocre piece of wood will never be anything more than a mediocre stock. "Ya' can't make a silk purse from a sows' ear". Military Mausers are probably the most expensive actions to use for a custom build because of all the needs to be done to them to sportize them. And then, what do you have, a 'sporterized' military Mauser? There are thousands if not millions of them 'floating' around the USA. Some that have seen some of the highest quality work done to them that command and get prices in the tens of thousands of dollars range (built by known custom gunmakers) to those that are no more than junk, not even worth the value of the action because of mis-drilled holes, welding, chopping,,,,, you name it (Bubbas' finest work! 'cause he read all about it on the internet!)! That said, I have built many rifles using [I]good[/I] '98 actions. And have never done any more than face the the front ring, weld on or forge the bolt handle, drill & tap for scope mounts (using a Forester jig, as Tom suggested), installed a custom barrel (from a blank, not pre-threaded and chambered), and custom stocked the barreled action. Don't try to turn it into something it is not. I wouldn't use a Mauser, no matter what banner it wears, if I couldn't do all the work myself! [/QUOTE]
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Mauser 98K Scout LR&H Build - Questions!
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