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Gunsmithing
Mauser 98K Scout LR&H Build - Questions!
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<blockquote data-quote="specweldtom" data-source="post: 1127993" data-attributes="member: 2580"><p>A couple of answers for you.</p><p></p><p>Don't weld anywhere on the receiver. The thumb notch is behind the main locking lugs and recesses, so doesn't diminish the action's ability to retain pressure. No way to weld up the huge notch without softening the receiver bridge and warping the action badly. Same applies to the stripper guide notch. The cocking ramp is less than 1" away, and would be softened.</p><p></p><p>Scope bases are available that fit the receiver bridge with the raised stripper guide.</p><p></p><p>Some pre-chambered barrels have long chambers so that you can set the shoulder and breech faces back (in a lathe) without having to buy a reamer. All you need is a headspace gauge.</p><p></p><p>The .30-06 and the .280 are longer than the original 8 X 57 Mauser and probably won't feed out of the magazine unless you deep seat or use light short bullets. However, the 6.5 x .284 works very well out of the std magazine box. </p><p></p><p>Don't quote me, but I believe the action screw spacing on the std large ring Mauser is close to 7 7/8" center to center.</p><p></p><p>Floor metal is available with longer mag boxes that can handle .30-06 length cartridges including the std length magnums, like .300 Win mag, .264 Win mag, 7 Rem mag, etc. </p><p></p><p>If you drill and tap the action for scope bases, have them in hand, and be super critical about getting them at 12:00 o'clock and perfectly spaced. I've seen the Forster drilling and tapping jig and know of no better way to get them right the first time (usually the only time).</p><p></p><p>The std bolt face will work on all 3 cartridges you mentioned, but would have to be opened up for </p><p>the magnums.</p><p></p><p>The bolt handle can be forged down or cut off and welded. Whichever is done, it needs to be done by a skilled 'smith. It's not a job for a hobbyist. </p><p></p><p>Any un-modified Oberndorf large ring '98 action made before 1944 is a good one, but in my opinion the 1935's to 1943's are the best.</p><p></p><p>The receiver thread is a 1.10" major diameter x 12 pitch by 55deg Whitworth form. Some barrel installers use a std 60 deg threading tool to cut the barrel thread. I've seen it done both ways.</p><p></p><p>Watch out for Yugo parts. Bolts, firing pins, and bottom metal are all shorter than the std '98 action.</p><p></p><p>You'll need to get a stock that is inletted for the Mauser. They are unique, and modifying any other stock is a major job. I wouldn't shorten the tang. It'll mess with stock inlet and bottom metal fit.</p><p></p><p>Enjoy, Tom</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="specweldtom, post: 1127993, member: 2580"] A couple of answers for you. Don't weld anywhere on the receiver. The thumb notch is behind the main locking lugs and recesses, so doesn't diminish the action's ability to retain pressure. No way to weld up the huge notch without softening the receiver bridge and warping the action badly. Same applies to the stripper guide notch. The cocking ramp is less than 1" away, and would be softened. Scope bases are available that fit the receiver bridge with the raised stripper guide. Some pre-chambered barrels have long chambers so that you can set the shoulder and breech faces back (in a lathe) without having to buy a reamer. All you need is a headspace gauge. The .30-06 and the .280 are longer than the original 8 X 57 Mauser and probably won't feed out of the magazine unless you deep seat or use light short bullets. However, the 6.5 x .284 works very well out of the std magazine box. Don't quote me, but I believe the action screw spacing on the std large ring Mauser is close to 7 7/8" center to center. Floor metal is available with longer mag boxes that can handle .30-06 length cartridges including the std length magnums, like .300 Win mag, .264 Win mag, 7 Rem mag, etc. If you drill and tap the action for scope bases, have them in hand, and be super critical about getting them at 12:00 o'clock and perfectly spaced. I've seen the Forster drilling and tapping jig and know of no better way to get them right the first time (usually the only time). The std bolt face will work on all 3 cartridges you mentioned, but would have to be opened up for the magnums. The bolt handle can be forged down or cut off and welded. Whichever is done, it needs to be done by a skilled 'smith. It's not a job for a hobbyist. Any un-modified Oberndorf large ring '98 action made before 1944 is a good one, but in my opinion the 1935's to 1943's are the best. The receiver thread is a 1.10" major diameter x 12 pitch by 55deg Whitworth form. Some barrel installers use a std 60 deg threading tool to cut the barrel thread. I've seen it done both ways. Watch out for Yugo parts. Bolts, firing pins, and bottom metal are all shorter than the std '98 action. You'll need to get a stock that is inletted for the Mauser. They are unique, and modifying any other stock is a major job. I wouldn't shorten the tang. It'll mess with stock inlet and bottom metal fit. Enjoy, Tom [/QUOTE]
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Mauser 98K Scout LR&H Build - Questions!
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