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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Mauser 98 re-barreling
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<blockquote data-quote="tobnpr" data-source="post: 2886450" data-attributes="member: 68758"><p>I do it, "just because"- but it's really not necessary with a modern rebarrel where there's a full diameter shoulder on the barrel.</p><p>The military barrels are only slightly larger in diameter than the receiver ring- not enough surface area contact which is why they're designed to seat on the inner- <em>primary-</em> torque shoulder.</p><p></p><p>I true the receiver ring, take the needed dimensions, then subtract .002 from the tenon length for thread crush so that the inner shoulder should contact the breech when torqued- but like I said, IMO it's no different than any other bolt action/receiver when you have an adequate torque shoulder.</p><p></p><p>Edited to add...</p><p>Remember the receivers are case hardened, not through-hardened... check the inner torque shoulder to receiver ring measurement with a mike in a few places to see if they're true to each other. Don't take more than a few thou off anywhere as you don't want to get into the soft metal- and make sure to check the receiver lug abutments for setback before you spin up a new barrel. If the abutments are set back more than a few thousandths it's a wall hanger (or, true up the receiver and send it out to be re-heat treated $$).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tobnpr, post: 2886450, member: 68758"] I do it, "just because"- but it's really not necessary with a modern rebarrel where there's a full diameter shoulder on the barrel. The military barrels are only slightly larger in diameter than the receiver ring- not enough surface area contact which is why they're designed to seat on the inner- [I]primary-[/I] torque shoulder. I true the receiver ring, take the needed dimensions, then subtract .002 from the tenon length for thread crush so that the inner shoulder should contact the breech when torqued- but like I said, IMO it's no different than any other bolt action/receiver when you have an adequate torque shoulder. Edited to add... Remember the receivers are case hardened, not through-hardened... check the inner torque shoulder to receiver ring measurement with a mike in a few places to see if they're true to each other. Don't take more than a few thou off anywhere as you don't want to get into the soft metal- and make sure to check the receiver lug abutments for setback before you spin up a new barrel. If the abutments are set back more than a few thousandths it's a wall hanger (or, true up the receiver and send it out to be re-heat treated $$). [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Mauser 98 re-barreling
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