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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
MATCH vs REGULAR BRASS
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<blockquote data-quote="Mysticplayer" data-source="post: 26643" data-attributes="member: 8947"><p>The difference between match brass and commercial brass is you and your particular rifle.</p><p></p><p>If this is a full blown BR rig with every dimension trued and minimized, match brass like Lapua will show a difference. However, understand that the difference sort after in this game usually get measured with calipers.</p><p></p><p>For the rest of us with either custom rifles or production rifles looking for better more consistent groups, match brass doesn't do much. Most of us are happy with 1/3 MOA groups. That's three times what the BR shooters want.</p><p></p><p>Buy your brass in one lot/brand. Fireform in the rifle, lee collet neck size, then follow up with prep - flash hole debur, trim to MAX allowable length in chamber, chamfer, maybe neck turn. If feeling realy picky, I will measure the internal volume of this brass by using a fine grain powder (WCC680-consistency of salt). I rarely find that cases vary enough to be visible. make sure you tap the cases to settle the powder.</p><p></p><p>Now the trial by fire. I shoot my brass for group at 200yds or further. part of my normal shooting. As long as I do my part, any brass that causes a flyer is marked. If that brass does it again, the brass is pitched.</p><p></p><p>Using this process, I have used brass from all major brands and several types of military brass. All produce performance up to the potential of the firearm. Meaning all shoot sub MOA and many under 1/2MOA.</p><p></p><p>Using a clean, consistently burning powder that is temp insensitive, lit by a good or match primer makes a huge difference to long range performance. A lot of ball powders (military surplus), except H870 and W872, don't burn consistently for LR accuracy - lots of stringing.</p><p></p><p>Proper sizing and seating of the bullets (less then .002" runout) in relation to the lands does more for accuracy then all the brass prep out there. Remember that Fed Gold medal 308 ammo is superb. I doubt there is someone sorting brass and weighing powder chargers. </p><p></p><p>Straight ammo is the most important thing.</p><p></p><p>If getting neck splits after a few firings and using a bushing or collet neck die, anneal the necks. Kit available from Hornady or info off the net. Makes a huge difference to case life.</p><p></p><p>Jerry</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mysticplayer, post: 26643, member: 8947"] The difference between match brass and commercial brass is you and your particular rifle. If this is a full blown BR rig with every dimension trued and minimized, match brass like Lapua will show a difference. However, understand that the difference sort after in this game usually get measured with calipers. For the rest of us with either custom rifles or production rifles looking for better more consistent groups, match brass doesn't do much. Most of us are happy with 1/3 MOA groups. That's three times what the BR shooters want. Buy your brass in one lot/brand. Fireform in the rifle, lee collet neck size, then follow up with prep - flash hole debur, trim to MAX allowable length in chamber, chamfer, maybe neck turn. If feeling realy picky, I will measure the internal volume of this brass by using a fine grain powder (WCC680-consistency of salt). I rarely find that cases vary enough to be visible. make sure you tap the cases to settle the powder. Now the trial by fire. I shoot my brass for group at 200yds or further. part of my normal shooting. As long as I do my part, any brass that causes a flyer is marked. If that brass does it again, the brass is pitched. Using this process, I have used brass from all major brands and several types of military brass. All produce performance up to the potential of the firearm. Meaning all shoot sub MOA and many under 1/2MOA. Using a clean, consistently burning powder that is temp insensitive, lit by a good or match primer makes a huge difference to long range performance. A lot of ball powders (military surplus), except H870 and W872, don't burn consistently for LR accuracy - lots of stringing. Proper sizing and seating of the bullets (less then .002" runout) in relation to the lands does more for accuracy then all the brass prep out there. Remember that Fed Gold medal 308 ammo is superb. I doubt there is someone sorting brass and weighing powder chargers. Straight ammo is the most important thing. If getting neck splits after a few firings and using a bushing or collet neck die, anneal the necks. Kit available from Hornady or info off the net. Makes a huge difference to case life. Jerry [/QUOTE]
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MATCH vs REGULAR BRASS
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