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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Mandrel as last step?
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<blockquote data-quote="MagnumManiac" data-source="post: 2722317" data-attributes="member: 10755"><p>Finding this thread interesting.</p><p>Neck tension is only held by the amount of springback, as Mikecr correctly said early in this thread. How we as loaders change this is by annealing necks. Some brass has smaller or larger quantities of zinc, this changes spring back amount.</p><p>After shooting F-class for a long time, a few things were learned a long the journey.</p><p>Number one is brass BRAND.</p><p>Number 2 is annealing consistently.</p><p>Number 3 is working the neck as little as possible.</p><p>Number 4 is using a dry neck lube.</p><p>Number 5 is bullet seating with a sleeve style die.</p><p>Number 6 is SEATING DEPTH and NECK SIZING DEPTH MATCHING BULLET SHANK DEPTH.</p><p>I have tested and found that HOW you set your neck interference is ALWAYS best when the neck is expanded to desired diameter. I threw out, or gave away, all of my bushing dies years ago and switched to honed neck dies and TAPERED sizing buttons, or mandrels.</p><p>My best F-class rifles run .0005" to .0015" neck tension (interference fit) on a 30 cal and, on a 26 cal this number ran .001" to .002".</p><p>Nothing higher ever worked.</p><p></p><p>Another fact regarding neck tension is that it alone rarely ever changes start pressure significantly to alter an outcome.</p><p>The only way to change start pressure any significant way is to use a crimp…exactly what the ammo factories do.</p><p>Have tested this over the Pressure Trace II on many occasions… not advocating that you crimp, just stating a fact.</p><p></p><p>Cheers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MagnumManiac, post: 2722317, member: 10755"] Finding this thread interesting. Neck tension is only held by the amount of springback, as Mikecr correctly said early in this thread. How we as loaders change this is by annealing necks. Some brass has smaller or larger quantities of zinc, this changes spring back amount. After shooting F-class for a long time, a few things were learned a long the journey. Number one is brass BRAND. Number 2 is annealing consistently. Number 3 is working the neck as little as possible. Number 4 is using a dry neck lube. Number 5 is bullet seating with a sleeve style die. Number 6 is SEATING DEPTH and NECK SIZING DEPTH MATCHING BULLET SHANK DEPTH. I have tested and found that HOW you set your neck interference is ALWAYS best when the neck is expanded to desired diameter. I threw out, or gave away, all of my bushing dies years ago and switched to honed neck dies and TAPERED sizing buttons, or mandrels. My best F-class rifles run .0005” to .0015” neck tension (interference fit) on a 30 cal and, on a 26 cal this number ran .001” to .002”. Nothing higher ever worked. Another fact regarding neck tension is that it alone rarely ever changes start pressure significantly to alter an outcome. The only way to change start pressure any significant way is to use a crimp…exactly what the ammo factories do. Have tested this over the Pressure Trace II on many occasions… not advocating that you crimp, just stating a fact. Cheers. [/QUOTE]
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Mandrel as last step?
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