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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Maintaining setup with turret press
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<blockquote data-quote="abinok" data-source="post: 107421" data-attributes="member: 16"><p>Chesapeake,</p><p>heres what I would buy if I had it to do all over again... after shooting out my 3rd 300wm barrel.</p><p>These choices are based on getting top quality ammo cheap. If you want more features, upgrade the componets you think are most needing.</p><p>The single stage press is very easy to set up consistantly, and should not be the only reason for selecting a turret press.</p><p>Rcbs rockchucker supreme press</p><p>lee shell holders</p><p>rcbs hand priming tool</p><p>lyman 22degree chamber tool</p><p>Hornady one shot lube</p><p>brush for case necks</p><p>0000 steel wool for outside case necks</p><p>Powder management can range from a harrels meter, to the lee scoups depending on what you want to spend. Get the hornady trickler... its cheapest and works. The $22 lee perfect powder measure is the best extruded powder measure there is.</p><p>Ditto on trimmers. Lee trimmer is cheapest, fast and precise. The wilson is the best. pick the features and value you deem approprate.</p><p>Lee :"reloader" press for decaping and bullet seating at the range if you like. Never ever ever fore sizing. its $15-$20.</p><p></p><p>Dies:</p><p>Either, lee 3 die set with the collet die, seating die, and fl sizing die, with a Redding body die to bump the shoulder. FL die for virgin brass, body die and neck die for reloading. Total die costs: $40 or so.</p><p>OR...</p><p>Forester bonanza 2 die set (mainly for the upgraded seater) lee collet die, and redding body die. adds about another $30 or so, but the FB seater is really worth it. The cool thing about the lee collet die is for a $5 bill, you can have mandrels made to any dimension th allow you to adjust neck tension to anything you deem nessicary... in many ways, especially if you aren't turning cases, its superior to a bushing die, and significantly cheaper. a $20 collet die, and 2, $5 mandrels as opposed the the bushing die and iths bushings at more than twice the price. Order 2 undersized mandrels from lee when your die is on the way. When they show up, polish one with steel wool to .0005 under what it was when you got it, and you will be able to adjust from .001" to .002" in .0005" incriments... about right for a bolt gun. If you think you might need more, order one more and polish it an extra thousandth to get to .003" more details if nessicary.</p><p>Also, consider a lee universal decapping die, and when you order your mandrels from lee, order a 338WM expander. You can chuck the 338 expander in the universal decapping die, and use it to form a false shoulder in the neck for the first firing. You will get less case warping, and not have to worry about case head seperation for the life of the case. I can explain further if nessicary.</p><p> </p><p>If you wanted to go the turret press route, definately get either the rcbs, or better, the redding version... both are better and more expensive than the lyman.</p><p>The neat thing about the turret press is you can put a virgin case in the shellholder, and on the stations:</p><p>1. expand to 338</p><p>2. fl size with false shoulder</p><p>Remove case, and continue batching... cow fireform if you like.</p><p>prime, chamfer, charge and seat.</p><p></p><p>reloading would have:</p><p>decap and clean and lube all brass.</p><p>1. body die bump .001"</p><p>2. neck size on collet die</p><p>3. charge</p><p>4. seat</p><p>DONE!</p><p></p><p>I usually decap all my brass seperately so I don't put all that priming residue on the good press... the lee press gets that, and then I clip the decapping pins off the mandrels and expanders so I can take my freshly fired brass, decap, clean, primerpocket uniform, and prime before sizing. This also lets me find loose primer pockets before all the sizing operations are wasted on used up brass. </p><p></p><p>The turret gives you a little faster round per minute rate, without much if any comprimise in round quality... you just have to decide if its worth the extra $100 or so.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="abinok, post: 107421, member: 16"] Chesapeake, heres what I would buy if I had it to do all over again... after shooting out my 3rd 300wm barrel. These choices are based on getting top quality ammo cheap. If you want more features, upgrade the componets you think are most needing. The single stage press is very easy to set up consistantly, and should not be the only reason for selecting a turret press. Rcbs rockchucker supreme press lee shell holders rcbs hand priming tool lyman 22degree chamber tool Hornady one shot lube brush for case necks 0000 steel wool for outside case necks Powder management can range from a harrels meter, to the lee scoups depending on what you want to spend. Get the hornady trickler... its cheapest and works. The $22 lee perfect powder measure is the best extruded powder measure there is. Ditto on trimmers. Lee trimmer is cheapest, fast and precise. The wilson is the best. pick the features and value you deem approprate. Lee :"reloader" press for decaping and bullet seating at the range if you like. Never ever ever fore sizing. its $15-$20. Dies: Either, lee 3 die set with the collet die, seating die, and fl sizing die, with a Redding body die to bump the shoulder. FL die for virgin brass, body die and neck die for reloading. Total die costs: $40 or so. OR... Forester bonanza 2 die set (mainly for the upgraded seater) lee collet die, and redding body die. adds about another $30 or so, but the FB seater is really worth it. The cool thing about the lee collet die is for a $5 bill, you can have mandrels made to any dimension th allow you to adjust neck tension to anything you deem nessicary... in many ways, especially if you aren't turning cases, its superior to a bushing die, and significantly cheaper. a $20 collet die, and 2, $5 mandrels as opposed the the bushing die and iths bushings at more than twice the price. Order 2 undersized mandrels from lee when your die is on the way. When they show up, polish one with steel wool to .0005 under what it was when you got it, and you will be able to adjust from .001" to .002" in .0005" incriments... about right for a bolt gun. If you think you might need more, order one more and polish it an extra thousandth to get to .003" more details if nessicary. Also, consider a lee universal decapping die, and when you order your mandrels from lee, order a 338WM expander. You can chuck the 338 expander in the universal decapping die, and use it to form a false shoulder in the neck for the first firing. You will get less case warping, and not have to worry about case head seperation for the life of the case. I can explain further if nessicary. If you wanted to go the turret press route, definately get either the rcbs, or better, the redding version... both are better and more expensive than the lyman. The neat thing about the turret press is you can put a virgin case in the shellholder, and on the stations: 1. expand to 338 2. fl size with false shoulder Remove case, and continue batching... cow fireform if you like. prime, chamfer, charge and seat. reloading would have: decap and clean and lube all brass. 1. body die bump .001" 2. neck size on collet die 3. charge 4. seat DONE! I usually decap all my brass seperately so I don't put all that priming residue on the good press... the lee press gets that, and then I clip the decapping pins off the mandrels and expanders so I can take my freshly fired brass, decap, clean, primerpocket uniform, and prime before sizing. This also lets me find loose primer pockets before all the sizing operations are wasted on used up brass. The turret gives you a little faster round per minute rate, without much if any comprimise in round quality... you just have to decide if its worth the extra $100 or so. [/QUOTE]
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