Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Hunting
Elk Hunting
Low Recoil Rounds Sutiable for Elk
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="nic gibson" data-source="post: 2927643" data-attributes="member: 127895"><p>short answer: the .260 will do it fine out to about 400-450 depending on some variables. Muzzle breaks are threaded now- so anyone in this situation can get one threaded for the range, and then not use it in the field. Or you could keep the brake in your pack in case you do have time to do a stalk and put it on. </p><p>However, three days ago I was in the woods and from bugle to shot opportunity was about 3 minutes, and seeing the bull to when I'd have killed it was 5 seconds. (I did not have a tag). Of the 7 opportunities I'd have had on an elk, 3 would have not allowed for me to put in ear protection, and these were some of the surest opportunities to get a good clean kill. </p><p>I would not go to the woods with a gun I needed to put in ear protection to shoot. A lot of animals are more and more glass shy, and I find more of my opportunities are from still hunting glass inaccessible places where things happen fast. With ranging, setting up, reading wind, searching for other animals that can foul it up- one more thing is not needed. </p><p>On my last deer hunt, I had three good opportunities, and all three gave me less than 5 seconds. One i got to rest my gun on something. </p><p>If you go with a brake, you need to be a spot and stalker. And in many places that means you need to be great at glassing. </p><p>Coming from the east, I thought glassing was galsssing. It is not. It's a huge skill that takes time to develop well. most are really bad at it, esp in places with any glassing pressure. plus it often involves long stalks and pack outs that older hunters can't do. </p><p></p><p>So: get a managable cartridge: 280/AI, 6.5 Cr/PRC/260/swede, 7mm08, 308/-06 and maybe a screw-on muzzlebreak so using it is optional. Most of these are plenty deadly well beyond most people's effective range. </p><p></p><p>As said above: you carry it a heck of a lot more than you shoot it. </p><p>ps- get really good mounts and scope and test them. Scopes take more beating in the mountains and need to maintain absolute zero.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="nic gibson, post: 2927643, member: 127895"] short answer: the .260 will do it fine out to about 400-450 depending on some variables. Muzzle breaks are threaded now- so anyone in this situation can get one threaded for the range, and then not use it in the field. Or you could keep the brake in your pack in case you do have time to do a stalk and put it on. However, three days ago I was in the woods and from bugle to shot opportunity was about 3 minutes, and seeing the bull to when I'd have killed it was 5 seconds. (I did not have a tag). Of the 7 opportunities I'd have had on an elk, 3 would have not allowed for me to put in ear protection, and these were some of the surest opportunities to get a good clean kill. I would not go to the woods with a gun I needed to put in ear protection to shoot. A lot of animals are more and more glass shy, and I find more of my opportunities are from still hunting glass inaccessible places where things happen fast. With ranging, setting up, reading wind, searching for other animals that can foul it up- one more thing is not needed. On my last deer hunt, I had three good opportunities, and all three gave me less than 5 seconds. One i got to rest my gun on something. If you go with a brake, you need to be a spot and stalker. And in many places that means you need to be great at glassing. Coming from the east, I thought glassing was galsssing. It is not. It's a huge skill that takes time to develop well. most are really bad at it, esp in places with any glassing pressure. plus it often involves long stalks and pack outs that older hunters can't do. So: get a managable cartridge: 280/AI, 6.5 Cr/PRC/260/swede, 7mm08, 308/-06 and maybe a screw-on muzzlebreak so using it is optional. Most of these are plenty deadly well beyond most people's effective range. As said above: you carry it a heck of a lot more than you shoot it. ps- get really good mounts and scope and test them. Scopes take more beating in the mountains and need to maintain absolute zero. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Hunting
Elk Hunting
Low Recoil Rounds Sutiable for Elk
Top