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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Lothar Walther vs Krieger barrels
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 1082948" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>I've been around two Walter barrels, and stood in the back ground while a buddy tried to cut one on his Asian lathe. Was quite a struggle, but he got thru it. I ended up adjusting the spindle bearing pack and shimming backlash out of the cross slide. The barrel felt like generic 17ph4 re-arc melt stainless steel. The chips looked just like the stuff. I rang the barrel and the harmonics felt like 17ph4 or maybe 18-5. Not any form of NiChrome steel I've ever been around (has nasty harmonics). I begged for a piece of the barrel to take to the lab, but never got it. So I'm really only guessing.</p><p> </p><p>Hardness has little if anything to how well a piece of steel will withstand heat. Actually some of the best are relatively soft (330 stainless and 349 stainless), but are a pain to cut at times. 17ph4 actually comes in more than one trade name. How much heat it will withstand; I just don't know for sure. I've put it in some seriously nasty situations with outstanding results. What I can say for sure is that it just doesn't want to rust, yet in the same situation 416 will rust up quickly. Wear is it's forte! The stuff appears to be abrasive resistant, and may actually harden as it wears. This is quite common with better grade of stainless steel, and makes you want to make deep heavy cuts at a slow surface speed. Yet you can get into trouble reaming a hole, and maybe removing .002" a side. Quite a learning curve, but not unmachineable like Hestalloy. The metal wants to be cut, and not pushed off the surface. Still I like diamond tooling.</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 1082948, member: 25383"] I've been around two Walter barrels, and stood in the back ground while a buddy tried to cut one on his Asian lathe. Was quite a struggle, but he got thru it. I ended up adjusting the spindle bearing pack and shimming backlash out of the cross slide. The barrel felt like generic 17ph4 re-arc melt stainless steel. The chips looked just like the stuff. I rang the barrel and the harmonics felt like 17ph4 or maybe 18-5. Not any form of NiChrome steel I've ever been around (has nasty harmonics). I begged for a piece of the barrel to take to the lab, but never got it. So I'm really only guessing. Hardness has little if anything to how well a piece of steel will withstand heat. Actually some of the best are relatively soft (330 stainless and 349 stainless), but are a pain to cut at times. 17ph4 actually comes in more than one trade name. How much heat it will withstand; I just don't know for sure. I've put it in some seriously nasty situations with outstanding results. What I can say for sure is that it just doesn't want to rust, yet in the same situation 416 will rust up quickly. Wear is it's forte! The stuff appears to be abrasive resistant, and may actually harden as it wears. This is quite common with better grade of stainless steel, and makes you want to make deep heavy cuts at a slow surface speed. Yet you can get into trouble reaming a hole, and maybe removing .002" a side. Quite a learning curve, but not unmachineable like Hestalloy. The metal wants to be cut, and not pushed off the surface. Still I like diamond tooling. gary [/QUOTE]
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Lothar Walther vs Krieger barrels
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