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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Lothar Walther barrels
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 747399" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>Walther barrels are made of either 17PH4 or 18-5 rearc melt stainless steel. This stuff is not for the average guy to work with. It's very tough to machine, and most guys that do machine it closely guard their processes. But the metal is a light year better than the typical 416 stainless steel most guys use. Tends tohandle heat a little better and is far more rust and errosion resistent than 416. 17PH4 and the other are not really any harder than the others, but much tougher to cut. Takes a low surface speed with a specialized insert (I cannot tell you what I used). Chips come out extremely hot and I've set more than one set of prints on fire from them so be carefull. </p><p> </p><p>But if you do decide to work with it, I'd send an email to Baldwin steel in PA. Then ask them what the best setup is for machining MR10. They sell the samething under a different name. They are very good to work with. The work I did with it was in military aps, and the talorence window was nothing like cutting a barrel. I found that it was easiest to do on an EDM. Never was pleased with the grind finish I got, but was acceptable. Very hard on a Bridgeport if you making serious cuts. Never noticed any work hardening with it, but as I said I kept the surface speed extremely low. If you can machine Hestalloy, you'll do just fine</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 747399, member: 25383"] Walther barrels are made of either 17PH4 or 18-5 rearc melt stainless steel. This stuff is not for the average guy to work with. It's very tough to machine, and most guys that do machine it closely guard their processes. But the metal is a light year better than the typical 416 stainless steel most guys use. Tends tohandle heat a little better and is far more rust and errosion resistent than 416. 17PH4 and the other are not really any harder than the others, but much tougher to cut. Takes a low surface speed with a specialized insert (I cannot tell you what I used). Chips come out extremely hot and I've set more than one set of prints on fire from them so be carefull. But if you do decide to work with it, I'd send an email to Baldwin steel in PA. Then ask them what the best setup is for machining MR10. They sell the samething under a different name. They are very good to work with. The work I did with it was in military aps, and the talorence window was nothing like cutting a barrel. I found that it was easiest to do on an EDM. Never was pleased with the grind finish I got, but was acceptable. Very hard on a Bridgeport if you making serious cuts. Never noticed any work hardening with it, but as I said I kept the surface speed extremely low. If you can machine Hestalloy, you'll do just fine gary [/QUOTE]
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Lothar Walther barrels
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