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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Load Development?
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<blockquote data-quote="Wachsmann" data-source="post: 1262820" data-attributes="member: 10429"><p>Here is something I have found out through personal trial and error. The Berger method works for just about any bullet/rifle combo (just about). For me I have started with a middle of book range charge and seated from the lands moving every .020 back. I generally shoot 3 to 4 rounds at a time at 200 yards. At some point one the group will tighten up and then spread back out. Next step take the best group and move up in powder and seat the same group 3 to 4 bullets each and then 2 or maybe 3 other groups that is .010 and .005+/- off the group that shot the best. You could also do the second test by increasing the powder change in each group of 3 bullets and see if you get one length that is stacking on top of each other. I think this is the round robin method but it seem to provide the least amount of bullet down the barrel for a accurate load and when I've done it this way I shoot at minimum 300 yards. </p><p> </p><p>Don't take this as anyone trying to tell you your doing it wrong, just trying to save you some barrel life and expense in the long run. </p><p> </p><p>I had a 257 Weatherby that I was trying to do the same as you are doing. Powder charge first. After about what was probably 100 rounds down the pipe I finally found a load, seating depth combo that worked good. The last kicker was neck tension. The gun always would shoot factory ammo better than what I loaded. Finally the light turned on and I noticed the crimp on the factory cases and I'll say it was one hell of a crimp that Weatherby puts on they cases. I pulled one bullet apart and the bullet was actually deformed quit a bit from the crimp. I got a bushing die and a couple of different bushing and was able to get the load shooting better than the factory loads just never as fast. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite11" alt=":rolleyes:" title="Roll Eyes :rolleyes:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":rolleyes:" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Wachsmann, post: 1262820, member: 10429"] Here is something I have found out through personal trial and error. The Berger method works for just about any bullet/rifle combo (just about). For me I have started with a middle of book range charge and seated from the lands moving every .020 back. I generally shoot 3 to 4 rounds at a time at 200 yards. At some point one the group will tighten up and then spread back out. Next step take the best group and move up in powder and seat the same group 3 to 4 bullets each and then 2 or maybe 3 other groups that is .010 and .005+/- off the group that shot the best. You could also do the second test by increasing the powder change in each group of 3 bullets and see if you get one length that is stacking on top of each other. I think this is the round robin method but it seem to provide the least amount of bullet down the barrel for a accurate load and when I've done it this way I shoot at minimum 300 yards. Don't take this as anyone trying to tell you your doing it wrong, just trying to save you some barrel life and expense in the long run. I had a 257 Weatherby that I was trying to do the same as you are doing. Powder charge first. After about what was probably 100 rounds down the pipe I finally found a load, seating depth combo that worked good. The last kicker was neck tension. The gun always would shoot factory ammo better than what I loaded. Finally the light turned on and I noticed the crimp on the factory cases and I'll say it was one hell of a crimp that Weatherby puts on they cases. I pulled one bullet apart and the bullet was actually deformed quit a bit from the crimp. I got a bushing die and a couple of different bushing and was able to get the load shooting better than the factory loads just never as fast. :rolleyes: [/QUOTE]
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