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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Lee Collet Dies vs Redding S bushing dies
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<blockquote data-quote="Hired Gun" data-source="post: 111601" data-attributes="member: 1290"><p>CP,</p><p>How would deburring or polishing the inside of the die eliminate the voids in the collet that cause the lines in the neck? The lines are not detrimental to accuracy or case life. If they really bother you they can be eliminated by turning the brass 1/8 of a turn and hitting it again. </p><p></p><p>The reasons the Redding die is inferior is it is sensitive to neck thickness and requires the time consuming use of lube. This mandates neck turning for consistent neck tension. What is easier, to polish the mandrel with a drill with some 320 grit once in your lifetime or to turn all your brass? The alternative is to have to buy a bunch of bushings, which further drive up the cost of the overpriced Redding die. The Lee die straightens and sizes the neck with a mandrel that extends clear through the primer hole. There is no way to make a neck with run out where a Redding is very susceptible to operator error being that it is absolutely critical that the brass be placed in the shell holder perfectly aligned with the die. This is tough to do consistently. Before the advent of the Lee Collet dies the Redding bushing die was state of the art. It's day has passed.</p><p></p><p>I wonder if the Lee dies would get more respect if they cost more. When I used to weld and fabricate for a living I had a lot more criticism of my work when I only charged $25 an hour. When I bumped up to $100 an hour all I ever heard was praise. </p><p></p><p>Jerry, in my experience the Lee takes a lot less pressure to use than any other type die. The instructions say to set it up so it sizes mid stroke and that takes a bit of pressure. I set mine up where the press just lightly cams over. Any more than that and it will blow the aluminum cap out of the die. I could run the press with my pinky this way.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hired Gun, post: 111601, member: 1290"] CP, How would deburring or polishing the inside of the die eliminate the voids in the collet that cause the lines in the neck? The lines are not detrimental to accuracy or case life. If they really bother you they can be eliminated by turning the brass 1/8 of a turn and hitting it again. The reasons the Redding die is inferior is it is sensitive to neck thickness and requires the time consuming use of lube. This mandates neck turning for consistent neck tension. What is easier, to polish the mandrel with a drill with some 320 grit once in your lifetime or to turn all your brass? The alternative is to have to buy a bunch of bushings, which further drive up the cost of the overpriced Redding die. The Lee die straightens and sizes the neck with a mandrel that extends clear through the primer hole. There is no way to make a neck with run out where a Redding is very susceptible to operator error being that it is absolutely critical that the brass be placed in the shell holder perfectly aligned with the die. This is tough to do consistently. Before the advent of the Lee Collet dies the Redding bushing die was state of the art. It’s day has passed. I wonder if the Lee dies would get more respect if they cost more. When I used to weld and fabricate for a living I had a lot more criticism of my work when I only charged $25 an hour. When I bumped up to $100 an hour all I ever heard was praise. Jerry, in my experience the Lee takes a lot less pressure to use than any other type die. The instructions say to set it up so it sizes mid stroke and that takes a bit of pressure. I set mine up where the press just lightly cams over. Any more than that and it will blow the aluminum cap out of the die. I could run the press with my pinky this way. [/QUOTE]
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Lee Collet Dies vs Redding S bushing dies
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