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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Lathe speeds and feeds and tools.
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<blockquote data-quote="Hired Gun" data-source="post: 1242099" data-attributes="member: 1290"><p>For inserts I use the cheap Shars indexable inserts <u><u><u><u><u><u><u><a href="http://www.shars.com/company/online-catalog?p=82" target="_blank">Online Catalog</a></u></u></u></u></u></u></u> catalog number 424-1381 for external threads in a SER 0625-H16 5/8" tool holder that is 4" long. For internal threads I use 424-1432 inserts in a SIR 0500 P16-1/2" holder. This are not the best by any means but they work very well for the money. The inserts are only 10.20 for each 3 sided insert. We get about 6 months to a year from each insert. </p><p> </p><p>I like to stay out a ways so the recoil lug has a nice tight full surface to center on. This thread extends 1/2 to a full thread under a .250" lug. Our trick (Brady and I) to end in the same spot on each cut is to use our DRO zeroed right where you want to stop. Not using a relief also lends itself really well for doing setbacks. Hard to cut threads if there is nothing to cut them in. We can cut a tennon down any number of threads and never have to lose the whole tennon to set it back. </p><p> </p><p><u><u><u><u><u><u><u><u><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/np9abxj" target="_blank"><img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/853/9abx.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></u></u></u></u></u></u></u></u><u><u><u><u><u><u><u><u><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/mht7qzj" target="_blank"><img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/809/t7qz.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></u></u></u></u></u></u></u></u></p><p> </p><p>Same for muzzle brakes. We never cut to a relief especially on muzzle brakes because it weakens the already thin barrel and I think it looks bad. I know we could cut threads backwards and considered it for awhile especially when cleaning up internal action threads but as I gained experience I got over it. When in doubt slow down and watch the DRO. With practice we can hit it within .001 real easy as the DRO reads out in .0002" increments. I believe every aspect of a custom rifle should be as perfect as possible inside and out. Without a DRO a guy can use a magnetic dial indicator on the apron. </p><p> </p><p> Using the above inserts and tool holders with Ridgid 74047 Extreme Performance Stainless Steel Thread Cutting Oil for threads and JGS HSS reamers with a 2 horse 100 PSI pressurized flush chambering we get really smooth chambers and threads. So smooth they will not pull lint from a towel. I haven't found a need to record feed rates because with these tools the turning and feed speeds are very flexible. We start out pretty fast and if it sings at all we slow down till they cut quiet and super smooth. Everything still works very well all the way down to 32 RPM if you wanted to go that slow and up to 320 RPM or so on the top end. I think having a quality lathe helps some too. I bought it through Precision Mathews but the same 2200 pound Sunmaster ERL-1340 lathe is sold under a lot of different names like Sharp, Kent and South Bend. </p><p></p><p><u><u><u><u><u><u><u><u><a href="https://imageshack.com/i/ipEGQp9dj" target="_blank"><img src="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/673/EGQp9d.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></u></u></u></u></u></u></u></u></p><p> </p><p>Sorry for going so long but the extra info is kind of related so I went ahead and made it pretty complete. I hope it makes sense in the morning. I was on a roll and it just kept flowing. This is not intended to be the only way either. It's just what we do. If your methods and tools work well for you I would be interested to know how other people do it. I like to try to learn a couple new things every day.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hired Gun, post: 1242099, member: 1290"] For inserts I use the cheap Shars indexable inserts [U][U][U][U][U][U][U][URL="http://www.shars.com/company/online-catalog?p=82"]Online Catalog[/URL][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U] catalog number 424-1381 for external threads in a SER 0625-H16 5/8" tool holder that is 4" long. For internal threads I use 424-1432 inserts in a SIR 0500 P16-1/2" holder. This are not the best by any means but they work very well for the money. The inserts are only 10.20 for each 3 sided insert. We get about 6 months to a year from each insert. I like to stay out a ways so the recoil lug has a nice tight full surface to center on. This thread extends 1/2 to a full thread under a .250" lug. Our trick (Brady and I) to end in the same spot on each cut is to use our DRO zeroed right where you want to stop. Not using a relief also lends itself really well for doing setbacks. Hard to cut threads if there is nothing to cut them in. We can cut a tennon down any number of threads and never have to lose the whole tennon to set it back. [U][U][U][U][U][U][U][U][URL="https://imageshack.com/i/np9abxj"][IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/853/9abx.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U][U][U][U][U][U][U][U][U][URL="https://imageshack.com/i/mht7qzj"][IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/809/t7qz.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U] Same for muzzle brakes. We never cut to a relief especially on muzzle brakes because it weakens the already thin barrel and I think it looks bad. I know we could cut threads backwards and considered it for awhile especially when cleaning up internal action threads but as I gained experience I got over it. When in doubt slow down and watch the DRO. With practice we can hit it within .001 real easy as the DRO reads out in .0002" increments. I believe every aspect of a custom rifle should be as perfect as possible inside and out. Without a DRO a guy can use a magnetic dial indicator on the apron. Using the above inserts and tool holders with Ridgid 74047 Extreme Performance Stainless Steel Thread Cutting Oil for threads and JGS HSS reamers with a 2 horse 100 PSI pressurized flush chambering we get really smooth chambers and threads. So smooth they will not pull lint from a towel. I haven't found a need to record feed rates because with these tools the turning and feed speeds are very flexible. We start out pretty fast and if it sings at all we slow down till they cut quiet and super smooth. Everything still works very well all the way down to 32 RPM if you wanted to go that slow and up to 320 RPM or so on the top end. I think having a quality lathe helps some too. I bought it through Precision Mathews but the same 2200 pound Sunmaster ERL-1340 lathe is sold under a lot of different names like Sharp, Kent and South Bend. [U][U][U][U][U][U][U][U][URL="https://imageshack.com/i/ipEGQp9dj"][IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/673/EGQp9d.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U][/U] Sorry for going so long but the extra info is kind of related so I went ahead and made it pretty complete. I hope it makes sense in the morning. I was on a roll and it just kept flowing. This is not intended to be the only way either. It's just what we do. If your methods and tools work well for you I would be interested to know how other people do it. I like to try to learn a couple new things every day. [/QUOTE]
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