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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Lathe question
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 1059852" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>you hit a good point! Always multiply the cost of the machine by at least 75% for tooling. That free tooling is just what it's worth. A good quality chuck with cost you roughly $125 an inch in diameter. The price of a good tool block and a half dozen heads will scare many guys off! Yet you get what you pay for. The cost of carbide boring bars has gone silly these days. Then there's the cost of inserts! Buy cheap ones and get cheap results. Hate to think what a diamond insert cost these days.</p><p> </p><p> Better lathes are always three phase because they are geared towards a more professional user. I would want a gear head lathe rather than internal belts. Look for flame hardened ways, and if the machine is used; plan on scrapping the cross slide and maybe even the apron. Also examine the tail stock very closely, as it hard to fix right.</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 1059852, member: 25383"] you hit a good point! Always multiply the cost of the machine by at least 75% for tooling. That free tooling is just what it's worth. A good quality chuck with cost you roughly $125 an inch in diameter. The price of a good tool block and a half dozen heads will scare many guys off! Yet you get what you pay for. The cost of carbide boring bars has gone silly these days. Then there's the cost of inserts! Buy cheap ones and get cheap results. Hate to think what a diamond insert cost these days. Better lathes are always three phase because they are geared towards a more professional user. I would want a gear head lathe rather than internal belts. Look for flame hardened ways, and if the machine is used; plan on scrapping the cross slide and maybe even the apron. Also examine the tail stock very closely, as it hard to fix right. gary [/QUOTE]
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Lathe question
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