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Interarms rebarrel
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<blockquote data-quote="nksmfamjp" data-source="post: 2256966" data-attributes="member: 1951"><p>Trigger is key too. These guys know what to do.</p><p></p><p>I would hold some money back to have the safety converted to a Winchester type 3 position.</p><p></p><p>It will be much more than a stock rem 700. 5r is a rifling shape. You are paying the extra for rifling quality. A Rem 700 may shoot sub-moa groups or it may shoot 2 moa. It does not have the rifling quality of a custom.</p><p></p><p>How would you define messing up your wood stock? I'm confused. Would you use or not use the stock in your custom build?</p><p></p><p>From a contour perspective, a number 3 is about standard Sporter size…maybe a bit heavy. Going with a 22" #2 with a 1.2" shank cut as short as possible would be pretty light. My Win 70 is 8.5lbs without the scope. It has a #3 Brux 24". Often times stock rifles have like 1/2" shank out of the action with the shank turned to 1.15" to keep weight down.</p><p></p><p>What glass did you get?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="nksmfamjp, post: 2256966, member: 1951"] Trigger is key too. These guys know what to do. I would hold some money back to have the safety converted to a Winchester type 3 position. It will be much more than a stock rem 700. 5r is a rifling shape. You are paying the extra for rifling quality. A Rem 700 may shoot sub-moa groups or it may shoot 2 moa. It does not have the rifling quality of a custom. How would you define messing up your wood stock? I’m confused. Would you use or not use the stock in your custom build? From a contour perspective, a number 3 is about standard Sporter size…maybe a bit heavy. Going with a 22” #2 with a 1.2” shank cut as short as possible would be pretty light. My Win 70 is 8.5lbs without the scope. It has a #3 Brux 24”. Often times stock rifles have like 1/2” shank out of the action with the shank turned to 1.15” to keep weight down. What glass did you get? [/QUOTE]
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