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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Input on 300 yard groups
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<blockquote data-quote="Ronald W Schaefer" data-source="post: 1656888" data-attributes="member: 109378"><p>Your techniques and process seem solid. FYI, I have a great load for my .300 WM: 180 gr Barnes TTSX, 79 gr IMR 4831, Fed 215 primer, Weatherby Brass, Max COAL. 3208 fps with a 26" BBL. I been there and back again and always return to that load. How did you break in your barrel? I started using the break-in regimen from Fierce Rifles and had good luck with it. Fierce firearms guys recommend:</p><p>Your break in will require shooting one box (20 rounds) of ammo</p><p></p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Shoot one round and then clean<br /> Do this for the first five rounds.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Shoot five rounds and then clean<br /> Do this for the next fifteen rounds.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Shoot a fouler round and then a three shot group for accuracy.</li> </ol><p><strong>NOTE</strong>: Allow barrel to cool before shooting each series of break-in rounds to avoid unnecessary throat erosion. Do not shoot your rifle in succession until the barrel is too hot to touch with a bare hand. This can burn the throat out of your match grade chamber.</p><p></p><p>When cleaning we recommend the following items</p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Use a quality one-piece cleaning rod.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Use high quality patches.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Use a bore guide.</li> </ul><p>Clean from chamber end only.</p><p></p><p>Clean powder residue from bore using a high quality barrel cleaning solvent.</p><p></p><p>Follow with a copper remover like Barnes CR-10 Copper to remove copper fouling. Follow the instructions on the bottle.</p><p></p><p>Finish with a patch lightly coated with gun oil. Your rifle is ready to shoot.</p><p>Remember to clean your rifle after 20-30 rounds.</p><p></p><p>This process can be done even though you have already been shooting the rifle. I did this with all three Fierce rifles we've had and two Weatherby factory rifles, it helped.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ronald W Schaefer, post: 1656888, member: 109378"] Your techniques and process seem solid. FYI, I have a great load for my .300 WM: 180 gr Barnes TTSX, 79 gr IMR 4831, Fed 215 primer, Weatherby Brass, Max COAL. 3208 fps with a 26" BBL. I been there and back again and always return to that load. How did you break in your barrel? I started using the break-in regimen from Fierce Rifles and had good luck with it. Fierce firearms guys recommend: Your break in will require shooting one box (20 rounds) of ammo [LIST=1] [*]Shoot one round and then clean Do this for the first five rounds. [*]Shoot five rounds and then clean Do this for the next fifteen rounds. [*]Shoot a fouler round and then a three shot group for accuracy. [/LIST] [B]NOTE[/B]: Allow barrel to cool before shooting each series of break-in rounds to avoid unnecessary throat erosion. Do not shoot your rifle in succession until the barrel is too hot to touch with a bare hand. This can burn the throat out of your match grade chamber. When cleaning we recommend the following items [LIST] [*]Use a quality one-piece cleaning rod. [*]Use high quality patches. [*]Use a bore guide. [/LIST] Clean from chamber end only. Clean powder residue from bore using a high quality barrel cleaning solvent. Follow with a copper remover like Barnes CR-10 Copper to remove copper fouling. Follow the instructions on the bottle. Finish with a patch lightly coated with gun oil. Your rifle is ready to shoot. Remember to clean your rifle after 20-30 rounds. This process can be done even though you have already been shooting the rifle. I did this with all three Fierce rifles we've had and two Weatherby factory rifles, it helped. [/QUOTE]
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Input on 300 yard groups
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