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In the Ear? Really???
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<blockquote data-quote="Packrat 6" data-source="post: 1613519" data-attributes="member: 80288"><p>John, i would go online and find out how to remove a parkerized finish or you can just take some fine grit (500 grit) sandpaper and blend the scratches in and Cerakote over the top of it, I guess. There are people on here that do this professionally and they may have a better answer for you. Remember that I'm usually in the process of taking it down to white, bare, metal for re-bluing. You may not need to do this.</p><p></p><p>Just a note on re-blue, if you've done all the nasty work for them and the rifle is just parts, the professional gunsmiths only charge me about $65.00 to re-blue the rifle if I decide it justifies the expense. I also reassemble the rifle myself. Normal re-blue in Tucson runs about $250.00 when they have to disassemble, clean and put it back together. Otherwise I use a modified cold blue that involves heating the metal up to about 150 degrees.</p><p></p><p>As far as as the sequence, it can be done either way, I just find that usually the bluing removal seems to come off easier and cleaner if the oil is gone.</p><p></p><p>There are some people on here, that probably think I am crazy for my process, but that's OK, it works on the stuff I do! Have fun!</p><p></p><p>BTW, there IS a work desk under there, it is just covered with stuff out of the cabinet!</p><p><img src="https://www.longrangehunting.com/data/attachments/41/41149-a432c823d5071b98b3691a8c1814bc84.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Packrat 6, post: 1613519, member: 80288"] John, i would go online and find out how to remove a parkerized finish or you can just take some fine grit (500 grit) sandpaper and blend the scratches in and Cerakote over the top of it, I guess. There are people on here that do this professionally and they may have a better answer for you. Remember that I'm usually in the process of taking it down to white, bare, metal for re-bluing. You may not need to do this. Just a note on re-blue, if you've done all the nasty work for them and the rifle is just parts, the professional gunsmiths only charge me about $65.00 to re-blue the rifle if I decide it justifies the expense. I also reassemble the rifle myself. Normal re-blue in Tucson runs about $250.00 when they have to disassemble, clean and put it back together. Otherwise I use a modified cold blue that involves heating the metal up to about 150 degrees. As far as as the sequence, it can be done either way, I just find that usually the bluing removal seems to come off easier and cleaner if the oil is gone. There are some people on here, that probably think I am crazy for my process, but that's OK, it works on the stuff I do! Have fun! BTW, there IS a work desk under there, it is just covered with stuff out of the cabinet! [IMG]https://www.longrangehunting.com/data/attachments/41/41149-a432c823d5071b98b3691a8c1814bc84.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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In the Ear? Really???
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