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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
How to measure chamber depth to seat bullets?
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<blockquote data-quote="tacsniper0888" data-source="post: 683920" data-attributes="member: 51520"><p>Thanks guys. I'm a newbie. My father has reloaded for years but just basic pistol and "deer" rifle stuff. Nothing to this degree I'm going. His precision long range deer hunting is out to 200 yards. Lol. My goal is with the .338 win 700 Sendero to take a whitetail at a thousand this year with the cutting edge 225gr D62 bullet and possibly even farther. Trying to tailor my hand loads to be the best. I bought the frankford arsenal tool which is similar to the stainless rod although cheaper quality <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /> its all plastic and you have to supply your own rod. Oh well lesson learned. I'm also trying the neck tension thing and can't get it to work. I'm using RCBS full length dies and right now experimenting with bore tech solid brass 245gr vld bullets that have grooves and seal tite bands on them and I can't get proper neck tension on the bullet with my setup as it slips into one of the grooves between two seal tite bands and then jumps around. Why I went ahead and bought the gauge. Also another method I found on YouTube some of the benchrest boys use is to remove the bolt nose and firing pin assembly from the bolt on a 700 and use a micrometer seating die and seat the bullet long and try to chamber it and gradually, by 0.001" at a time, seat it deeper until when they push the dummy roun forward with the bolt the bolt handle falls into the locked position on its own. I can't get this to work either though even with a fired or resized case with no round in it as my shoulders are blew all the way forward from being fire formed in my chamber. The bolt still has ever so slight resistance to where I have to close it but less resistance than with a loaded round and the firing pin installed. Is there a due I can buy to push my shoulders back to where they should be or does this mean my brass is close to or beyond the reloadable point and needs to be tossed and replaced? Being as I'm going with such precision should I start with new brass anyway? Or dies this mean I have a headspace issue? I was wanting to replace my factory bolt with the PT&G fluted one piece bolt anyway and a badger knob but $300 for both then I don't know how to headspace it and no telling what it will cost at the gunsmith to have this done so if someone can tell me how to properly headspace a replacement bolt myself I would do this but if not I will reuse my factory bolt if nothing is wrong with it. Thanks again guys and have a great day.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tacsniper0888, post: 683920, member: 51520"] Thanks guys. I'm a newbie. My father has reloaded for years but just basic pistol and "deer" rifle stuff. Nothing to this degree I'm going. His precision long range deer hunting is out to 200 yards. Lol. My goal is with the .338 win 700 Sendero to take a whitetail at a thousand this year with the cutting edge 225gr D62 bullet and possibly even farther. Trying to tailor my hand loads to be the best. I bought the frankford arsenal tool which is similar to the stainless rod although cheaper quality :( its all plastic and you have to supply your own rod. Oh well lesson learned. I'm also trying the neck tension thing and can't get it to work. I'm using RCBS full length dies and right now experimenting with bore tech solid brass 245gr vld bullets that have grooves and seal tite bands on them and I can't get proper neck tension on the bullet with my setup as it slips into one of the grooves between two seal tite bands and then jumps around. Why I went ahead and bought the gauge. Also another method I found on YouTube some of the benchrest boys use is to remove the bolt nose and firing pin assembly from the bolt on a 700 and use a micrometer seating die and seat the bullet long and try to chamber it and gradually, by 0.001" at a time, seat it deeper until when they push the dummy roun forward with the bolt the bolt handle falls into the locked position on its own. I can't get this to work either though even with a fired or resized case with no round in it as my shoulders are blew all the way forward from being fire formed in my chamber. The bolt still has ever so slight resistance to where I have to close it but less resistance than with a loaded round and the firing pin installed. Is there a due I can buy to push my shoulders back to where they should be or does this mean my brass is close to or beyond the reloadable point and needs to be tossed and replaced? Being as I'm going with such precision should I start with new brass anyway? Or dies this mean I have a headspace issue? I was wanting to replace my factory bolt with the PT&G fluted one piece bolt anyway and a badger knob but $300 for both then I don't know how to headspace it and no telling what it will cost at the gunsmith to have this done so if someone can tell me how to properly headspace a replacement bolt myself I would do this but if not I will reuse my factory bolt if nothing is wrong with it. Thanks again guys and have a great day. [/QUOTE]
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How to measure chamber depth to seat bullets?
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