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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
How to develop a new load?
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<blockquote data-quote="xsn10s" data-source="post: 1502264" data-attributes="member: 95344"><p>I'm going to make a few assumptions so forgive me if I'm wrong. I'm going to assume these are hunting rounds at a distance of 400 yards or less. I'm also going to assume all the rounds are going to go into the mag so the rounds are going to be limited to your rifle's magazine. Nosler's ogive is a tangent which is generally more forgiving to seating depth and easier to make accurate. I'm not sure about the Hammer's, from the pictures it looks like a tangent but I've never handled them. Here's a good article on the different ogives. <a href="http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2011/03/tangent-vs-secant-vs-hybrid-ogive-bryan-litz-explains/" target="_blank">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2011/03/tangent-vs-secant-vs-hybrid-ogive-bryan-litz-explains/</a> It doesn't matter too much unless you're hunting longer range because I've found that it's possible to get good hunting accuracy (1 MOA or better) with tangent ogives at box mag length. So then read up on accurate loads. From your powder selection looks like you're already doing that. When the Hammer bullets arrive I'd contact them for good loads. If you haven't done so I'd get a good chamfer and deburring tool. I'd also get a VLD deburring tool. This will reduce scrapping the bullets while seating and I've seen pressures drop 5000 PSI just from chamfer and deburring. If you can get a good concentricity gauge. If not check concentricity by rolling the cartridge on the table to see any "wobble". Like suggested one of the best things to do is get books/ reloading manuals. First book I bought was Ken Waters "Pet Loads". Even today I still read it. The next thing I did was get Sierra Bullets reloading video. Lastly don't get caught up on velocity in the beginning. I concentrated on accuracy and safe loads. When you get your Hammers I'd suggest getting all the copper from the BT's or other bullets out first. In my experience monos and AccuBonds don't like copper jackets from other bullets.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="xsn10s, post: 1502264, member: 95344"] I'm going to make a few assumptions so forgive me if I'm wrong. I'm going to assume these are hunting rounds at a distance of 400 yards or less. I'm also going to assume all the rounds are going to go into the mag so the rounds are going to be limited to your rifle's magazine. Nosler's ogive is a tangent which is generally more forgiving to seating depth and easier to make accurate. I'm not sure about the Hammer's, from the pictures it looks like a tangent but I've never handled them. Here's a good article on the different ogives. [URL]http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2011/03/tangent-vs-secant-vs-hybrid-ogive-bryan-litz-explains/[/URL] It doesn't matter too much unless you're hunting longer range because I've found that it's possible to get good hunting accuracy (1 MOA or better) with tangent ogives at box mag length. So then read up on accurate loads. From your powder selection looks like you're already doing that. When the Hammer bullets arrive I'd contact them for good loads. If you haven't done so I'd get a good chamfer and deburring tool. I'd also get a VLD deburring tool. This will reduce scrapping the bullets while seating and I've seen pressures drop 5000 PSI just from chamfer and deburring. If you can get a good concentricity gauge. If not check concentricity by rolling the cartridge on the table to see any "wobble". Like suggested one of the best things to do is get books/ reloading manuals. First book I bought was Ken Waters "Pet Loads". Even today I still read it. The next thing I did was get Sierra Bullets reloading video. Lastly don't get caught up on velocity in the beginning. I concentrated on accuracy and safe loads. When you get your Hammers I'd suggest getting all the copper from the BT's or other bullets out first. In my experience monos and AccuBonds don't like copper jackets from other bullets. [/QUOTE]
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How to develop a new load?
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