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The Basics, Starting Out
How to build a LR gun, revisited.
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<blockquote data-quote="Ian M" data-source="post: 51562" data-attributes="member: 25"><p>Jeeper,</p><p>Only difference is the printer and it is worth having. You can also order direct from Oehler, particularly for spare parts. You really should have some spare bodies and light diffuser parts, they are very cheap. Oehler has the simplest, most reasonably priced stands and also a good carrying case I believe.</p><p></p><p>I regularly use two 35P's as I set a second system downrange to get actual downrange velocities. Makes for interesting shooting - have shot through both sets of screens simultaneously out to 500 yards so far. Fact is I have shot up my screens more at 100 and at the 10" spacing, never hit them yet shooting downrange past 100. </p><p></p><p>I do a lot with in-line muzzleloaders as well as centerfire and have a simple angled steel deflector that I put in front of the screens downrange - it has been bowled over a few times but the screens and tripods survived. Also sometimes use a piece of plywood with a slit in it set up in front of the 10' setting so that sabots don't take out the plastic - angle it a bit and the sabots bounce off and away.</p><p></p><p>Sabots from in-line bullets (and shotgun slugs) are nasty on the screens and diffusers but I just keep glueing them back together if possible, then replace. As long as you don't hit the little "eye" sensor or snip a wire (did that) the system will work.</p><p></p><p>The paper printouts are very useful, save notekeeping at the range. Just jot down each load in the margin of the printout, make better notes back home.</p><p></p><p>Plan on carrying everything in a big plastic tool kit or tackle box - you should also have an extra 9 volt battery, spare printer paper, pens, tape measure (to get your distance from the muzzle), a cheap carpenter's level to level up the screens, a pair of plyers to loosen the screen wingnut bolts if necessary, and a spare screen body and diffuse parts. I cut a piece of foam to fit the bottom of my tool boxes, make a cutout in it to place the 35P body in, then pile everything on and around it.</p><p></p><p>You will find that the more parrallel your screens are to the flight of the bullet the more consistent and accurate your readings are. You can tell how close to parallel you are by examining the two readings after a shot - they should be only a few feet per second apart. By adjusting your screens up and down with the level you can frequently get readings that are only a couple of feet apart. </p><p></p><p>If they are too far off the computer will warn you as the display will flash on and off. Sometimes this also means that you did not get into the receptive area that the sensor is working.</p><p></p><p>Battery life is very good, you will know when to change batteries as the printer noticeably slows down. The little battery cover is the only pain in the butt in the entire system - at least on my systems the covers don't stay in place so I tape them shut. Printers seem to last forever, I have had my units for years and they are still printing clearly. Understand that they are serviceable - haven't had to do that.</p><p></p><p>I hope this info is of interst and that you enjoy your new toy.</p><p>ian</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ian M, post: 51562, member: 25"] Jeeper, Only difference is the printer and it is worth having. You can also order direct from Oehler, particularly for spare parts. You really should have some spare bodies and light diffuser parts, they are very cheap. Oehler has the simplest, most reasonably priced stands and also a good carrying case I believe. I regularly use two 35P's as I set a second system downrange to get actual downrange velocities. Makes for interesting shooting - have shot through both sets of screens simultaneously out to 500 yards so far. Fact is I have shot up my screens more at 100 and at the 10" spacing, never hit them yet shooting downrange past 100. I do a lot with in-line muzzleloaders as well as centerfire and have a simple angled steel deflector that I put in front of the screens downrange - it has been bowled over a few times but the screens and tripods survived. Also sometimes use a piece of plywood with a slit in it set up in front of the 10' setting so that sabots don't take out the plastic - angle it a bit and the sabots bounce off and away. Sabots from in-line bullets (and shotgun slugs) are nasty on the screens and diffusers but I just keep glueing them back together if possible, then replace. As long as you don't hit the little "eye" sensor or snip a wire (did that) the system will work. The paper printouts are very useful, save notekeeping at the range. Just jot down each load in the margin of the printout, make better notes back home. Plan on carrying everything in a big plastic tool kit or tackle box - you should also have an extra 9 volt battery, spare printer paper, pens, tape measure (to get your distance from the muzzle), a cheap carpenter's level to level up the screens, a pair of plyers to loosen the screen wingnut bolts if necessary, and a spare screen body and diffuse parts. I cut a piece of foam to fit the bottom of my tool boxes, make a cutout in it to place the 35P body in, then pile everything on and around it. You will find that the more parrallel your screens are to the flight of the bullet the more consistent and accurate your readings are. You can tell how close to parallel you are by examining the two readings after a shot - they should be only a few feet per second apart. By adjusting your screens up and down with the level you can frequently get readings that are only a couple of feet apart. If they are too far off the computer will warn you as the display will flash on and off. Sometimes this also means that you did not get into the receptive area that the sensor is working. Battery life is very good, you will know when to change batteries as the printer noticeably slows down. The little battery cover is the only pain in the butt in the entire system - at least on my systems the covers don't stay in place so I tape them shut. Printers seem to last forever, I have had my units for years and they are still printing clearly. Understand that they are serviceable - haven't had to do that. I hope this info is of interst and that you enjoy your new toy. ian [/QUOTE]
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The Basics, Starting Out
How to build a LR gun, revisited.
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