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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
7mm STW
How tight the rings?
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<blockquote data-quote="SidecarFlip" data-source="post: 976619" data-attributes="member: 39764"><p>Hate to break yolur bubble but gunwerks builds nothing but loads. The hardware (rifle) is built by someone else. So are most all the LR rifle sellers, all built by some other shop. Your major LR sellers only build loads, something you can do yourself.</p><p> </p><p>I know who builds them but I won't say because it isn't ethical business wise.</p><p> </p><p>To the OP, I'd suspect the entire mounting platform, from the bases to the ring mounts, I take it someone else mounted the scope, not you. I trust no one and mount, lap and torque all my rifles and handguns myself</p><p> </p><p>If it was me, I'd pull everything and start over, all the way down to the receiver dovetails.</p><p> </p><p>I use blue loctite, even under the bases where they engage the dovetails and always torque everything to the specification provided and progressive torque in an 'X' pattern with blue loctite on every screw. </p><p> </p><p>Bar lapping either vertically split or horoziontally split rings is no issue. I usually use Warne Maxima vertically split tings on a heavy recoiling rifle. Warne's have a below the base recoil lug built in which you always locate toward the <u>front</u> of the receiver dovetail. The only caveat with vertically split rings is be sure to segregate each half and don't mix them up when installing the scope, I mark the front and rear half rings with a paint marker so I don't.</p><p> </p><p>My personal opinion is, I don't care for Zee rings on a heavy recoiling rifle (or pistol), in my view, a plastic insert don't exert enough fixing effort on a scope tube though, I have used them on a light recoiling firearm and the do work well.</p><p> </p><p>Lapping and aligning the rings has a hidden positive attribute. If you go to sell the scope, a scope with no ring marks is worth more and on the downside, heavy ring marks from a poor mount job can actually impact the erector mechanism in a negative manner. After all, scope tubes are soft aluminum and thin.</p><p> </p><p>I've never used 'golf club tape' and don't plan on, ever. Properly lapped and torqued rings don't need additional friction increasing materials.</p><p> </p><p>Again, they way I do it and may or may not be what you want to do. Just suggesting alternatives.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SidecarFlip, post: 976619, member: 39764"] Hate to break yolur bubble but gunwerks builds nothing but loads. The hardware (rifle) is built by someone else. So are most all the LR rifle sellers, all built by some other shop. Your major LR sellers only build loads, something you can do yourself. I know who builds them but I won't say because it isn't ethical business wise. To the OP, I'd suspect the entire mounting platform, from the bases to the ring mounts, I take it someone else mounted the scope, not you. I trust no one and mount, lap and torque all my rifles and handguns myself If it was me, I'd pull everything and start over, all the way down to the receiver dovetails. I use blue loctite, even under the bases where they engage the dovetails and always torque everything to the specification provided and progressive torque in an 'X' pattern with blue loctite on every screw. Bar lapping either vertically split or horoziontally split rings is no issue. I usually use Warne Maxima vertically split tings on a heavy recoiling rifle. Warne's have a below the base recoil lug built in which you always locate toward the [U]front[/U] of the receiver dovetail. The only caveat with vertically split rings is be sure to segregate each half and don't mix them up when installing the scope, I mark the front and rear half rings with a paint marker so I don't. My personal opinion is, I don't care for Zee rings on a heavy recoiling rifle (or pistol), in my view, a plastic insert don't exert enough fixing effort on a scope tube though, I have used them on a light recoiling firearm and the do work well. Lapping and aligning the rings has a hidden positive attribute. If you go to sell the scope, a scope with no ring marks is worth more and on the downside, heavy ring marks from a poor mount job can actually impact the erector mechanism in a negative manner. After all, scope tubes are soft aluminum and thin. I've never used 'golf club tape' and don't plan on, ever. Properly lapped and torqued rings don't need additional friction increasing materials. Again, they way I do it and may or may not be what you want to do. Just suggesting alternatives. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
7mm STW
How tight the rings?
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