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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
How tight should action screws be while bedding sets up?
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<blockquote data-quote="Alibiiv" data-source="post: 2003575" data-attributes="member: 69192"><p>I use two layers (applied separately) of .010 thousandths pipe tape that I get from Brownells, starting 4 inches in front of the recoil lug, does a really neat job (.020) where the steel meets the wood/fiberglass seam. To answer the OP I use a minimal amount of torque with the regular bedding screws, again from Brownells. The screws come in a kit with parts that I use to pillar bed the action as well; nylon bushings and stainless washers. Usually I will pillar bed the action first, "then" pillar bed second. By doing the pillars first I can remove all the material around the recoil lug and around the pillars back to the magazine well where I leave 1/16th of an inch of wood (in your case fiberglass) between the action channel and the magazine well. By doing the pillars first, and then removing the material around the front pillar when I do bed the action is sitting on the pillars and I can get the fiberglass/divcon round the pillars as well as make a bed for the action to sit into. Again minimal torque on the bedding screws (finger tight), like the idea of rubber tubing or velcro around the action. Good luck with your bedding job, experience does make for a better job. Right now I have a couple of rifles I am doing over from when I first started bedding them.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-accessories/bedding-tape/010-pipe-wrap-tape-prod19481.aspx" target="_blank">www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-accessories/bedding-tape/010-pipe-wrap-tape-prod19481.aspx</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Alibiiv, post: 2003575, member: 69192"] I use two layers (applied separately) of .010 thousandths pipe tape that I get from Brownells, starting 4 inches in front of the recoil lug, does a really neat job (.020) where the steel meets the wood/fiberglass seam. To answer the OP I use a minimal amount of torque with the regular bedding screws, again from Brownells. The screws come in a kit with parts that I use to pillar bed the action as well; nylon bushings and stainless washers. Usually I will pillar bed the action first, "then" pillar bed second. By doing the pillars first I can remove all the material around the recoil lug and around the pillars back to the magazine well where I leave 1/16th of an inch of wood (in your case fiberglass) between the action channel and the magazine well. By doing the pillars first, and then removing the material around the front pillar when I do bed the action is sitting on the pillars and I can get the fiberglass/divcon round the pillars as well as make a bed for the action to sit into. Again minimal torque on the bedding screws (finger tight), like the idea of rubber tubing or velcro around the action. Good luck with your bedding job, experience does make for a better job. Right now I have a couple of rifles I am doing over from when I first started bedding them. [URL='http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-accessories/bedding-tape/010-pipe-wrap-tape-prod19481.aspx']www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-accessories/bedding-tape/010-pipe-wrap-tape-prod19481.aspx[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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How tight should action screws be while bedding sets up?
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