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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
How "important" are certain details when reloading?
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<blockquote data-quote="benchracer" data-source="post: 836164" data-attributes="member: 22069"><p>Here are some details that I have found to be important:</p><p> </p><p>1. Consult multiple sources for your load data. This will aid in choosing an optimum powder and in getting an idea of where your max load should be.</p><p> </p><p>2. Choose the slowest burning/highest load density powder that is practical for your planned combination. For most applications involving accuracy, I have had my best results with extruded type propellants rather than ball type propellants.</p><p> </p><p>3. Whatever brass you use, make sure that you have enough for testing and to load the desired number of rounds after you settle on your final load. Ditto on brand and type of primer. Staying within the same lot of powder is desireable here, too. Some powders have problems with lot-to-lot consistency, so be careful when going to the next can of powder.</p><p> </p><p>4. Using a starting load, determine the optimum seating depth for your desired bullet in your rifle. Do that by following the instructions found in the <strong>Getting the Best Precision and Accuracy from Berger VLD Bullets in Your Rifle </strong>sticky posted at the top of this forum. I have found that procedure to work with any bullet. Once you have determined optimum seating depth, you can experiment with powders and primers. The best seating depth with a given bullet will remain a constant.</p><p> </p><p>5. After determining optimum seating depth, do your powder charge workup in whatever way makes sense to you. Some people do ladder tests, others work up to max in .5 grain increments, some use the OCW (optimum charge weight) method, etc. Some people shoot 3 shot groups, some 5 shot groups, some 10 shot groups. Whatever floats you boat. Regardless of how you do it, HAND WEIGH ALL OF YOUR POWDER CHARGES!</p><p> </p><p>There are other things people do in addition to the above. A lot of the extra steps are things copied from benchrest shooters. IMO, most of the benchrest loading techniques do little or nothing for you if you are shooting a factory rifle with a factory barrel.</p><p> </p><p>As you gain experience, you can always tweak your loading technique and experiment with various things. That's part of the journey for most of us. Starting with a solid basic technique will pay dividends as you progress.</p><p> </p><p>GOOD LUCK!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="benchracer, post: 836164, member: 22069"] Here are some details that I have found to be important: 1. Consult multiple sources for your load data. This will aid in choosing an optimum powder and in getting an idea of where your max load should be. 2. Choose the slowest burning/highest load density powder that is practical for your planned combination. For most applications involving accuracy, I have had my best results with extruded type propellants rather than ball type propellants. 3. Whatever brass you use, make sure that you have enough for testing and to load the desired number of rounds after you settle on your final load. Ditto on brand and type of primer. Staying within the same lot of powder is desireable here, too. Some powders have problems with lot-to-lot consistency, so be careful when going to the next can of powder. 4. Using a starting load, determine the optimum seating depth for your desired bullet in your rifle. Do that by following the instructions found in the [B]Getting the Best Precision and Accuracy from Berger VLD Bullets in Your Rifle [/B]sticky posted at the top of this forum. I have found that procedure to work with any bullet. Once you have determined optimum seating depth, you can experiment with powders and primers. The best seating depth with a given bullet will remain a constant. 5. After determining optimum seating depth, do your powder charge workup in whatever way makes sense to you. Some people do ladder tests, others work up to max in .5 grain increments, some use the OCW (optimum charge weight) method, etc. Some people shoot 3 shot groups, some 5 shot groups, some 10 shot groups. Whatever floats you boat. Regardless of how you do it, HAND WEIGH ALL OF YOUR POWDER CHARGES! There are other things people do in addition to the above. A lot of the extra steps are things copied from benchrest shooters. IMO, most of the benchrest loading techniques do little or nothing for you if you are shooting a factory rifle with a factory barrel. As you gain experience, you can always tweak your loading technique and experiment with various things. That's part of the journey for most of us. Starting with a solid basic technique will pay dividends as you progress. GOOD LUCK! [/QUOTE]
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Reloading
How "important" are certain details when reloading?
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