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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
How I Barrel A Precision Custom Rifle - Long Rifles, LLC
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<blockquote data-quote="NesikaChad" data-source="post: 395972" data-attributes="member: 7449"><p>Chamber is now cut to depth. Again the dumb/simple process is what I resort to. When I get close to my depth I'll pull the tool out of the way, screw the action onto the barrel partially and then drop the bolt on the GO gauge. I'll then screw the action on until the gauge hits the chamber/bolt face. Then just measure the gap between the receiver/shoulder and add that to my last depth. I do however have to compensate a couple thousandths for crush when the barrel gets pulled up tight on the action. I torque all my 1.0625" OD tennons to 125lbs. That nets about .002-.0025 of crush. I'll add an additional .0035" to my final reamer depth which should give me a "GO+.001" chamber depth once I'm all done. It's very, very rare that I have any issues with chamber surface finish so I just use some 320 emery and green scotchbrite to buff the chamber up when I'm done. This ensures I'm not altering the internal dimensions or rolling corners in the shoulder/case body/neck area. The other part of this to pay attention to is surface finish. I personally don't advocate a chamber polished to a mirror finish. they look pretty and guys get all hot/bothered by it, but in my experience its actually hurting things (brass) a little bit. Reason is the flow of material. Brass wants to typically move towards the neck/shoulder over a period of time. The resizing process does it and so does firing. I like to have a sort of cross hatch pattern typical of an engine's cylinder so that the little scratches "bite" the brass and hold it. It's a fine line though as going too coarse means that the brass ends up looking frosty after being fired. I also use a shot of Kroil or WD40 as it keeps the chips/abrasive in suspension and helps prevent it from loading up in the chamber. 1K RPM and some quick strokes back and forth.</p><p></p><p>Once it's all done it looks like these:</p><p></p><p>6mm 22-250 Remington Ackley Improved:</p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0062-1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>300 Remington Ultra Magnum:</p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0003.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>Now we move onto the inspection process. Are things the way I want them?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NesikaChad, post: 395972, member: 7449"] Chamber is now cut to depth. Again the dumb/simple process is what I resort to. When I get close to my depth I'll pull the tool out of the way, screw the action onto the barrel partially and then drop the bolt on the GO gauge. I'll then screw the action on until the gauge hits the chamber/bolt face. Then just measure the gap between the receiver/shoulder and add that to my last depth. I do however have to compensate a couple thousandths for crush when the barrel gets pulled up tight on the action. I torque all my 1.0625" OD tennons to 125lbs. That nets about .002-.0025 of crush. I'll add an additional .0035" to my final reamer depth which should give me a "GO+.001" chamber depth once I'm all done. It's very, very rare that I have any issues with chamber surface finish so I just use some 320 emery and green scotchbrite to buff the chamber up when I'm done. This ensures I'm not altering the internal dimensions or rolling corners in the shoulder/case body/neck area. The other part of this to pay attention to is surface finish. I personally don't advocate a chamber polished to a mirror finish. they look pretty and guys get all hot/bothered by it, but in my experience its actually hurting things (brass) a little bit. Reason is the flow of material. Brass wants to typically move towards the neck/shoulder over a period of time. The resizing process does it and so does firing. I like to have a sort of cross hatch pattern typical of an engine's cylinder so that the little scratches "bite" the brass and hold it. It's a fine line though as going too coarse means that the brass ends up looking frosty after being fired. I also use a shot of Kroil or WD40 as it keeps the chips/abrasive in suspension and helps prevent it from loading up in the chamber. 1K RPM and some quick strokes back and forth. Once it's all done it looks like these: 6mm 22-250 Remington Ackley Improved: [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0062-1.jpg[/IMG] 300 Remington Ultra Magnum: [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0003.jpg[/IMG] Now we move onto the inspection process. Are things the way I want them? [/QUOTE]
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How I Barrel A Precision Custom Rifle - Long Rifles, LLC
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