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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
How I Barrel A Precision Custom Rifle - Long Rifles, LLC
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<blockquote data-quote="NesikaChad" data-source="post: 395970" data-attributes="member: 7449"><p>Now it's matter of setting the chuck pressure, the tool work offset, and letting the program do it's thing. I start by contouring the tennon and qualifying the diameter with my 1"-2" Mitutoyo Mic.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0001-1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0054.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0055.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Threading to fit the action starts with a generic G92 threading cycle. It gets the thread "close". Close means the bulk of the material is out of the way but not so much as to allow the action to actually thread on. From here it just cycle through additional thread cycles written to only take .001" at a time. Once I get to where the action will go onto the barrel just enough to not stick a thread I skip through the rest of the passes and move onto boring the breech/chamber to get it concentric for the reamer.</p><p></p><p>(I forgot to take this photo for the actual barrel I'm working on so I'm substituting this one just to illustrate.)</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0014.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Barrel is now threaded for the action and its time (yet again) to do some inspection. I like to set breech clearances at .015" as it gives enough room for funk without running the risk of rupturing cases and what not. Since the web is still well inside the bore and fully supported I'm not too concerned about a case "sneezing" due to lack of support from the chamber. I like to keep inspection as simple and dumb as I can as they seem to work the best. In this case I leave the fancy math to the school teachers and stick a piece of soft lead solder to the lug face of the bolt. I'll hold it with a dab of grease. From there I'll just insert it in the action and rotate into battery. The camming action squishes the solder and when removed provides a no question dimension. I measure with a pair of calipers and record it. Easy stuff. . .</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0060-1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>In this case I was off a bit. My clearance is only .003". No worries as I'll just edit the code and reface the tennon an additional .012" to get the .015" I'm looking for. </p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0061-1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Now I'm ready to chamber. My reamer holder never changes position. It stays in the machine and I've checked it enough times to know that it repeats. (It better for what the machine cost). One thing I did forget to mention is the spindle of this machine. When starting one of these jobs on a cold machine I'll let the spindle run in at 1000 rpm for about 15 minutes. The casting that the bearing cassettes run in warm up and pick up about .003" from ice cold. This is an important step for the chambering part since we are using a tool that depends on a reliable center position. If the tools used in turning/threading are above/below the part a bit its not nearly so critical since that can be compensated for with some easy edits in the tool wear offset page. Machine is all warmed up by the time the chambering part comes.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NesikaChad, post: 395970, member: 7449"] Now it's matter of setting the chuck pressure, the tool work offset, and letting the program do it's thing. I start by contouring the tennon and qualifying the diameter with my 1"-2" Mitutoyo Mic. [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0001-1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0054.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0055.jpg[/IMG] Threading to fit the action starts with a generic G92 threading cycle. It gets the thread "close". Close means the bulk of the material is out of the way but not so much as to allow the action to actually thread on. From here it just cycle through additional thread cycles written to only take .001" at a time. Once I get to where the action will go onto the barrel just enough to not stick a thread I skip through the rest of the passes and move onto boring the breech/chamber to get it concentric for the reamer. (I forgot to take this photo for the actual barrel I'm working on so I'm substituting this one just to illustrate.) [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0014.jpg[/IMG] Barrel is now threaded for the action and its time (yet again) to do some inspection. I like to set breech clearances at .015" as it gives enough room for funk without running the risk of rupturing cases and what not. Since the web is still well inside the bore and fully supported I'm not too concerned about a case "sneezing" due to lack of support from the chamber. I like to keep inspection as simple and dumb as I can as they seem to work the best. In this case I leave the fancy math to the school teachers and stick a piece of soft lead solder to the lug face of the bolt. I'll hold it with a dab of grease. From there I'll just insert it in the action and rotate into battery. The camming action squishes the solder and when removed provides a no question dimension. I measure with a pair of calipers and record it. Easy stuff. . . [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0060-1.jpg[/IMG] In this case I was off a bit. My clearance is only .003". No worries as I'll just edit the code and reface the tennon an additional .012" to get the .015" I'm looking for. [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0061-1.jpg[/IMG] Now I'm ready to chamber. My reamer holder never changes position. It stays in the machine and I've checked it enough times to know that it repeats. (It better for what the machine cost). One thing I did forget to mention is the spindle of this machine. When starting one of these jobs on a cold machine I'll let the spindle run in at 1000 rpm for about 15 minutes. The casting that the bearing cassettes run in warm up and pick up about .003" from ice cold. This is an important step for the chambering part since we are using a tool that depends on a reliable center position. If the tools used in turning/threading are above/below the part a bit its not nearly so critical since that can be compensated for with some easy edits in the tool wear offset page. Machine is all warmed up by the time the chambering part comes. [/QUOTE]
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How I Barrel A Precision Custom Rifle - Long Rifles, LLC
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