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<blockquote data-quote="theflyonthewall" data-source="post: 576302" data-attributes="member: 35305"><p>I'd almost bet the bank that you have an optics problem and not a gun problem. Do you have another scope that you know has performed well on another centerfire rifle? If so, take off the one that's on it now. Then check and recheck all the screws that hold the base on.</p><p></p><p>After your sure that they are snugged down (don't strip the threads), then set the bottom of the rings in the base and check and recheck them to assure that they're tight to the base.</p><p></p><p>Begin mounting the new scope by making SURE that the rifle is level in two directions. Both side-to-side, and front to back if your not using a canted base (20 MOA, 30 MOA, etc...Once everything is absolutely level, then CAREFULLY set the new scope into the rings. Get behind the rifle as if you were going to shoot it. Gently slide the scope forward or rearward to get the eye relief correct. Be sure that you don't bump the rifle while doing this. If you do, you'll have to re-level the rifle in both directions and try again. </p><p></p><p>Once the eye relief is adjusted to your liking, place a small level on the top turret so that you can rotate the scope clockwise and counterclockwise to get it level with the rifle. Once it's right, then carefully proceed to placing the caps on the rings being SUPER CAREFUL not to bump the rifle or scope and cause either one to go out of level. </p><p></p><p>Next, carefully begin tightening the screws on the ring caps. You might do some research on the proper torque sequence, but I always tighten my screws in a diagonal pattern (think of an "X"). I'll snug each screw until they are all close to being tightened, then I move to the other ring cap and begin snugging that one. </p><p></p><p>Once they are all pretty evenly snugged, I'll go back to the screw that I started with and tighten it to the torque spec if I have one. If not, I go by feel. When I feel like it's tight, but not close to stripping the threads, I stop there. But the torque spec is the best route BY FAR, if you happen to have a torque-reading screwdriver.</p><p></p><p>Finally, after all the tightening, recheck all the screws that you have access to to make sure you didn't skip any.</p><p></p><p>Once this is complete, you should now have total confidence that your base isn't moving, your rings aren't moving, and your scope isn't moving. The rifle should now shoot much better than before. If it doesn't, then you'll have to move onto other things like action screw torque or action bedding.</p><p></p><p>But I have a strong suspicion that either the scope is bad, or the mounting is. Doing all of the above will ensure that the mounting-part of the equation is correct. Once that's established, you can move on to other things in your diagnosis.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="theflyonthewall, post: 576302, member: 35305"] I'd almost bet the bank that you have an optics problem and not a gun problem. Do you have another scope that you know has performed well on another centerfire rifle? If so, take off the one that's on it now. Then check and recheck all the screws that hold the base on. After your sure that they are snugged down (don't strip the threads), then set the bottom of the rings in the base and check and recheck them to assure that they're tight to the base. Begin mounting the new scope by making SURE that the rifle is level in two directions. Both side-to-side, and front to back if your not using a canted base (20 MOA, 30 MOA, etc...Once everything is absolutely level, then CAREFULLY set the new scope into the rings. Get behind the rifle as if you were going to shoot it. Gently slide the scope forward or rearward to get the eye relief correct. Be sure that you don't bump the rifle while doing this. If you do, you'll have to re-level the rifle in both directions and try again. Once the eye relief is adjusted to your liking, place a small level on the top turret so that you can rotate the scope clockwise and counterclockwise to get it level with the rifle. Once it's right, then carefully proceed to placing the caps on the rings being SUPER CAREFUL not to bump the rifle or scope and cause either one to go out of level. Next, carefully begin tightening the screws on the ring caps. You might do some research on the proper torque sequence, but I always tighten my screws in a diagonal pattern (think of an "X"). I'll snug each screw until they are all close to being tightened, then I move to the other ring cap and begin snugging that one. Once they are all pretty evenly snugged, I'll go back to the screw that I started with and tighten it to the torque spec if I have one. If not, I go by feel. When I feel like it's tight, but not close to stripping the threads, I stop there. But the torque spec is the best route BY FAR, if you happen to have a torque-reading screwdriver. Finally, after all the tightening, recheck all the screws that you have access to to make sure you didn't skip any. Once this is complete, you should now have total confidence that your base isn't moving, your rings aren't moving, and your scope isn't moving. The rifle should now shoot much better than before. If it doesn't, then you'll have to move onto other things like action screw torque or action bedding. But I have a strong suspicion that either the scope is bad, or the mounting is. Doing all of the above will ensure that the mounting-part of the equation is correct. Once that's established, you can move on to other things in your diagnosis. [/QUOTE]
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