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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Help explain taper crimp
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<blockquote data-quote="Lefty7mmstw" data-source="post: 2287776" data-attributes="member: 48043"><p>Same as a revolver or auto, if your bullets are walking, you need to add more crimp, otherwise you are probably fine for your rifle. I only really use a taper crimp on 40 s&w right now, but it is really to get rid of the bell and get the neck tension up. Uniforming the neck diameter is a bonus but it really shouldn't help your headspacing as long as the rounds are going into battery; there is a bit of a shelf at the front of the chamber that the mouth catches for headspace. </p><p>Over crimping can actually cause the mouth to start to slip the shelf and cause inconsistent headspace. This really is not much of an issue in most straight walled rimless but has been an issue in 38 Super and possibly a few others.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lefty7mmstw, post: 2287776, member: 48043"] Same as a revolver or auto, if your bullets are walking, you need to add more crimp, otherwise you are probably fine for your rifle. I only really use a taper crimp on 40 s&w right now, but it is really to get rid of the bell and get the neck tension up. Uniforming the neck diameter is a bonus but it really shouldn't help your headspacing as long as the rounds are going into battery; there is a bit of a shelf at the front of the chamber that the mouth catches for headspace. Over crimping can actually cause the mouth to start to slip the shelf and cause inconsistent headspace. This really is not much of an issue in most straight walled rimless but has been an issue in 38 Super and possibly a few others. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Help explain taper crimp
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