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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Head space gauge
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<blockquote data-quote="AZShooter" data-source="post: 669480" data-attributes="member: 5219"><p>Trying to figure out why your friend would suggest you need a headspace gauge to reload. In my opinion you don't need one.</p><p></p><p>You say you are new to reloading. I strongly suggest you buy a loading manual like Hornady or Nosler. These books have a chapter devoted to how to load ammo. There are many details that you must follow or you will have poor results or even endanger yourself. </p><p></p><p></p><p> When chambering a barrel there are usually two headspace gauges used. They are called go and no go. The idea is to get the depth of the chamber so that the go gauge fits but the no go doesn't fit. The difference in length between the two can vary but it is usually somewhere around .003" to .005". </p><p>I think your friend is perhaps thinking of the fit between the once fired brass and the chamber when you resize your brass? </p><p></p><p>You can tune the fit between the rifle's chamber and sized brass by regulating the depth of a full length sizing die. While an auto loader may require quite a bit of resizing, a bolt action can handle a tight fit. If you are a hunter you may want the brass to fit so that there is no resistance when you close the bolt. If you shoot targets you could fine tune the fit with a tiny bit of resistance when closing the bolt. Or you could even neck size and not do anything to the body. Eventually even neck sized brass must be partially full length sized or after several firings the bolt can be too difficult to close. </p><p></p><p>The way to partially full length size fired brass is to set up the full length die with a space between the shell holder and the end of the die. Size a fired piece of brass, wipe it off, then try closing the bolt on the case. Progressively lower the die until you get the fit you want. It is common to get to a point where the brass becomes more difficult to chamber. Eventually you will reach the setting that will allow you to close the bolt with minimal resistance or no resistance at all. It is up to you. If you insert a few feeler gauges into the space between the shell holder and the die you can duplicate space between the die and shell holder for the next sizing session. You could also tighten the setscrew on the die's tightening ring but in my experience the setscrew doesn't always keep the ring at the proper setting. Regardless of the method it is advisable to size one piece of brass and try it in the chamber. Then fine tune if necessary. </p><p></p><p> What you don't want to do is just screw the die down till it contacts the shell holder and size. You could be pushing the shoulder back too far which will over work the brass. During the sizing process some brass flows towards the neck increasing the case length. When this happens it will very slightly thin the area just in front of the web near the base. If over sizing is done for several firings the case could get dangerously thin in that area and eventually separate. There are signs that this is beginning to happen which is usually discussed in loading manuals. I KNOW about case head separation because I did it with my first rifle 30 yrs ago. ( I followed RCBS's instructions and adjusted the die to contact the shell holder). </p><p></p><p>Even partial full length sizing will cause some case lengthening. At some point you will have to trim the brass so it doesn't contact the end of the chamber and hinder bullet release which will spike pressures. </p><p></p><p>I hope this makes sense. There is much more to handloading. Read up, ask questions and if possible have a seasoned handloader at your range show you some techniques. Most of us had someone show us handloading techniques when we were just starting out. </p><p></p><p>Feel free to ask questions here. Many here are willing to help out a beginner.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AZShooter, post: 669480, member: 5219"] Trying to figure out why your friend would suggest you need a headspace gauge to reload. In my opinion you don't need one. You say you are new to reloading. I strongly suggest you buy a loading manual like Hornady or Nosler. These books have a chapter devoted to how to load ammo. There are many details that you must follow or you will have poor results or even endanger yourself. When chambering a barrel there are usually two headspace gauges used. They are called go and no go. The idea is to get the depth of the chamber so that the go gauge fits but the no go doesn't fit. The difference in length between the two can vary but it is usually somewhere around .003" to .005". I think your friend is perhaps thinking of the fit between the once fired brass and the chamber when you resize your brass? You can tune the fit between the rifle's chamber and sized brass by regulating the depth of a full length sizing die. While an auto loader may require quite a bit of resizing, a bolt action can handle a tight fit. If you are a hunter you may want the brass to fit so that there is no resistance when you close the bolt. If you shoot targets you could fine tune the fit with a tiny bit of resistance when closing the bolt. Or you could even neck size and not do anything to the body. Eventually even neck sized brass must be partially full length sized or after several firings the bolt can be too difficult to close. The way to partially full length size fired brass is to set up the full length die with a space between the shell holder and the end of the die. Size a fired piece of brass, wipe it off, then try closing the bolt on the case. Progressively lower the die until you get the fit you want. It is common to get to a point where the brass becomes more difficult to chamber. Eventually you will reach the setting that will allow you to close the bolt with minimal resistance or no resistance at all. It is up to you. If you insert a few feeler gauges into the space between the shell holder and the die you can duplicate space between the die and shell holder for the next sizing session. You could also tighten the setscrew on the die's tightening ring but in my experience the setscrew doesn't always keep the ring at the proper setting. Regardless of the method it is advisable to size one piece of brass and try it in the chamber. Then fine tune if necessary. What you don't want to do is just screw the die down till it contacts the shell holder and size. You could be pushing the shoulder back too far which will over work the brass. During the sizing process some brass flows towards the neck increasing the case length. When this happens it will very slightly thin the area just in front of the web near the base. If over sizing is done for several firings the case could get dangerously thin in that area and eventually separate. There are signs that this is beginning to happen which is usually discussed in loading manuals. I KNOW about case head separation because I did it with my first rifle 30 yrs ago. ( I followed RCBS's instructions and adjusted the die to contact the shell holder). Even partial full length sizing will cause some case lengthening. At some point you will have to trim the brass so it doesn't contact the end of the chamber and hinder bullet release which will spike pressures. I hope this makes sense. There is much more to handloading. Read up, ask questions and if possible have a seasoned handloader at your range show you some techniques. Most of us had someone show us handloading techniques when we were just starting out. Feel free to ask questions here. Many here are willing to help out a beginner. [/QUOTE]
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