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Hunting
The Basics, Starting Out
getting perfect neck tension
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<blockquote data-quote="Digger49er" data-source="post: 278455" data-attributes="member: 9285"><p>I have a 338 Tomahawk which is based on the Remington Ultra Mag case. I prefer to neck the 375 cases down before fireforming them. My reasoning for this is to give the case a little more meat before I turn them down, which in turn should give me a more concentric neck and even neck tension by my way of thinking. It seems to work for me and case life isn't all that bad. </p><p> </p><p>I have to admit I'm a bit anal when it comes to brass. I turn necks, uniform primer pockets, weigh brass etc for <strong><u>all </u></strong>my reloads. I don't know if it's really worth the time for an average hunting rifle but what the hell ............it doesn't hurt either. The way I see it every little bit helps when your talking accurate reloads. </p><p> </p><p>gun)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Digger49er, post: 278455, member: 9285"] I have a 338 Tomahawk which is based on the Remington Ultra Mag case. I prefer to neck the 375 cases down before fireforming them. My reasoning for this is to give the case a little more meat before I turn them down, which in turn should give me a more concentric neck and even neck tension by my way of thinking. It seems to work for me and case life isn't all that bad. I have to admit I'm a bit anal when it comes to brass. I turn necks, uniform primer pockets, weigh brass etc for [B][U]all [/U][/B]my reloads. I don't know if it's really worth the time for an average hunting rifle but what the hell ............it doesn't hurt either. The way I see it every little bit helps when your talking accurate reloads. gun) [/QUOTE]
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The Basics, Starting Out
getting perfect neck tension
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