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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Getting a reticle level is nearly impossible .
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<blockquote data-quote="winmag" data-source="post: 678899" data-attributes="member: 22166"><p>Having been there many times I can totally relate.</p><p></p><p>I have refined my technique & more often than not its proven itself.</p><p></p><p>Aside from the previously mentioned techniques, I start by setting my scope in two blocks with a "v" notch cut into them. Then at about 25 yds (the distance from one end of my bar in the kitchen, out the sliding door accross the yard to the cedar fence.....) I have a gold thumb tack placed in the center of level lines which I shot in with a theattolite, after I tried for perfection with a 6' stabilla box level<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p></p><p>Then with the scope in the V blocks I rotate the scope in a circle over & over, & adjust the vert, & horiz adjustments untill the crosshairs make a perfect circle in the middle of the gold thumb tack. (one at a time of course) but if its "off" in any way the crosshairs make an oval, not a circle.</p><p></p><p>After that's done, I hang a plumb bob from my curtian rod at the sliding door in line with my shot in level lines on the fence. (yes my curtain rod is also marked for repeatability<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" />)</p><p>Then I put the rifle in my lead sled, which is checked for plumb with two magnetic torpedoes (not too horribly accurate, but it works), then plumb rifle up with the Wheeler level level level. (but I also cheated here) I pulled a square line accross the bar, & marked the underside of the trim to keep my lead sled in the same place every time, as well as give a reference to pull a square line for the top level on the elevation turret. Checked the square lines with a 3-4-5, & a framing square (its a narrow bar).</p><p>Sorry for the rediculous amount of math, & double checking.g myself. It's a habit. I lay out really big buildings for a living, & have access to many tools that most folks don't like a theattolite. But a builders level is easy to use, & usually easy to find one to rent if your so inclined </p><p></p><p>Then bore sight center of bbl on the plumb line, & adjust rings accordingly to get my scope very very close.. Once this is done, & rings are reasonably snug fine tune my very, & horiz, & I start my torque sequence, checking for no movement in P.O.A. usually not more than a few clicks out.</p><p>Then site it at 100. Check Vert adjustment for any left or right wandering. Dial for 200yd zero, & check P.O.I. at 100, 300, & 600.</p><p></p><p>It works for me anyway, but kinda overkill for some people. I don't ever win the lott either. I make my own luck, & thank God for the blessings, & other awesome stuff that happens to me with no reasonable explaination.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="winmag, post: 678899, member: 22166"] Having been there many times I can totally relate. I have refined my technique & more often than not its proven itself. Aside from the previously mentioned techniques, I start by setting my scope in two blocks with a "v" notch cut into them. Then at about 25 yds (the distance from one end of my bar in the kitchen, out the sliding door accross the yard to the cedar fence.....) I have a gold thumb tack placed in the center of level lines which I shot in with a theattolite, after I tried for perfection with a 6' stabilla box level:D Then with the scope in the V blocks I rotate the scope in a circle over & over, & adjust the vert, & horiz adjustments untill the crosshairs make a perfect circle in the middle of the gold thumb tack. (one at a time of course) but if its "off" in any way the crosshairs make an oval, not a circle. After that's done, I hang a plumb bob from my curtian rod at the sliding door in line with my shot in level lines on the fence. (yes my curtain rod is also marked for repeatability:D) Then I put the rifle in my lead sled, which is checked for plumb with two magnetic torpedoes (not too horribly accurate, but it works), then plumb rifle up with the Wheeler level level level. (but I also cheated here) I pulled a square line accross the bar, & marked the underside of the trim to keep my lead sled in the same place every time, as well as give a reference to pull a square line for the top level on the elevation turret. Checked the square lines with a 3-4-5, & a framing square (its a narrow bar). Sorry for the rediculous amount of math, & double checking.g myself. It's a habit. I lay out really big buildings for a living, & have access to many tools that most folks don't like a theattolite. But a builders level is easy to use, & usually easy to find one to rent if your so inclined Then bore sight center of bbl on the plumb line, & adjust rings accordingly to get my scope very very close.. Once this is done, & rings are reasonably snug fine tune my very, & horiz, & I start my torque sequence, checking for no movement in P.O.A. usually not more than a few clicks out. Then site it at 100. Check Vert adjustment for any left or right wandering. Dial for 200yd zero, & check P.O.I. at 100, 300, & 600. It works for me anyway, but kinda overkill for some people. I don't ever win the lott either. I make my own luck, & thank God for the blessings, & other awesome stuff that happens to me with no reasonable explaination. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Getting a reticle level is nearly impossible .
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