Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Getting a reticle level is nearly impossible .
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 677061" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>I can level until I am blue in the face but in the end I have to use the elevation turret or shoot 100</p><p>yards to 600 yards to get a perfict level of the scope.</p><p></p><p>If you shoot 100 yards and then start up on the elevation the POI will tell you which way you </p><p>have to go.</p><p></p><p>I allways place a small piece of tape on the scope against one of the rings and another on the </p><p>ring after the first attempt to level the scope. then I make a very fine mark on both pieces</p><p>as a reference so if I need to move the scope I know where I was, and where I need to be.</p><p></p><p>If the windage changes as I elevate I adjust the scope so there are no windage changes at any</p><p>distance.</p><p></p><p>Note : The rifle has to be leveled for each shot. I use a level that fits on the rails of the action</p><p>for this. This will keep you from canting the rifle and nullifying the scope leveling results.</p><p></p><p>When you are done the windage will not change as you crank in elevation and the cross hairs/</p><p>reticle will help to prevent canting if you are on level ground. If you hunt the mountains where </p><p>the ground is never level an external level is recomended </p><p></p><p>A mechanical zero is ok for short distance buy the long distances need to have an optical zero.</p><p>so that any corrections are correct.</p><p></p><p>Just the way I do it.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 677061, member: 2736"] I can level until I am blue in the face but in the end I have to use the elevation turret or shoot 100 yards to 600 yards to get a perfict level of the scope. If you shoot 100 yards and then start up on the elevation the POI will tell you which way you have to go. I allways place a small piece of tape on the scope against one of the rings and another on the ring after the first attempt to level the scope. then I make a very fine mark on both pieces as a reference so if I need to move the scope I know where I was, and where I need to be. If the windage changes as I elevate I adjust the scope so there are no windage changes at any distance. Note : The rifle has to be leveled for each shot. I use a level that fits on the rails of the action for this. This will keep you from canting the rifle and nullifying the scope leveling results. When you are done the windage will not change as you crank in elevation and the cross hairs/ reticle will help to prevent canting if you are on level ground. If you hunt the mountains where the ground is never level an external level is recomended A mechanical zero is ok for short distance buy the long distances need to have an optical zero. so that any corrections are correct. Just the way I do it. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Getting a reticle level is nearly impossible .
Top