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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Free Floating of the forarm is it absolutly essential
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<blockquote data-quote="Buffalobob" data-source="post: 458947" data-attributes="member: 8"><p>Free floating a barrel is about the easiest task there is when it comes to working on a rifle.</p><p></p><p>You will need a few wood working tools such as rasps, dremel, curved gouge (chisel) and sandpaper wrapped around a dowel.</p><p></p><p>Basically you take a piece of paper and with the action loosely in the stock slide the paper between the barrel and the stock to determine where the barrel is making contact in the channel and remove wood there. Then you put the action back in the stock and check again and if the paper will not slide under the barrel you remove wood where it binds and then try again. Repeat this 5-10 times until the paper slides freely up to the bedding compound.</p><p></p><p>There may be a difference between how the action fits in the stock with a loose fit and when it is finally tightened down so you have to give it a final check to make sure it is free floated when the screws are in.</p><p></p><p>The common sources of error are cosmetic damage along the top sides of the barrel channel where you remove too much wood in a spot and at the end of the barrel channel by not getting a round shape. The damage from mistakes will be purely cosmetic unless you get in a hurry and use a chainsaw. </p><p></p><p>Be sure to seal the inside of the barrel channel with a exterior grade of wood sealer. It is not so critical with a laminated stock as a regular walnut stock. A regular wood stock unsealed can warp so it un-floats the barrel.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buffalobob, post: 458947, member: 8"] Free floating a barrel is about the easiest task there is when it comes to working on a rifle. You will need a few wood working tools such as rasps, dremel, curved gouge (chisel) and sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. Basically you take a piece of paper and with the action loosely in the stock slide the paper between the barrel and the stock to determine where the barrel is making contact in the channel and remove wood there. Then you put the action back in the stock and check again and if the paper will not slide under the barrel you remove wood where it binds and then try again. Repeat this 5-10 times until the paper slides freely up to the bedding compound. There may be a difference between how the action fits in the stock with a loose fit and when it is finally tightened down so you have to give it a final check to make sure it is free floated when the screws are in. The common sources of error are cosmetic damage along the top sides of the barrel channel where you remove too much wood in a spot and at the end of the barrel channel by not getting a round shape. The damage from mistakes will be purely cosmetic unless you get in a hurry and use a chainsaw. Be sure to seal the inside of the barrel channel with a exterior grade of wood sealer. It is not so critical with a laminated stock as a regular walnut stock. A regular wood stock unsealed can warp so it un-floats the barrel. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Free Floating of the forarm is it absolutly essential
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