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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Freakish fliers
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<blockquote data-quote="Steve Shelp" data-source="post: 22802" data-attributes="member: 22"><p>Garrum,</p><p> I've never used the PAM method but know of others that have. Shoe polish works also. The theroy is that this stuff is a thinner coating on your barreled action so the end result should be better fit. Me for hunting guns when using Acraglass, I've always stuck to the supplied release agents and some vaseline on the screws and threads, with clay to fill in all voids in the action.</p><p></p><p>Now that you have it bedded, is the barrel floated? Some say to bed the first few inches and all sorts of various ways. But my theroy goes like this... if NOTHING is touching the barrel then it can't have any pressure points after heating up or pressure on the forearm while firing. So I always float a Remington barrel 100% with clearance on the front of the recoil lug also. This has always worked for me. Good job taking this on yourself. As you can see it's not that difficult and your gun can only be better. If it's worse after the bedding job, then it was done wrong and you'll learn something. Plus Remington's are probably the easiest to start with for the first bedding job.</p><p></p><p>H4831SC is the short cut version of the old standby H4831. They advertise it as interchangeable between them. But as usual the typical safety standards apply when changing a component. But to say SC is better than the standard or vice-versa, I've never seen any evidence. I have both types and shoot both in various rifles.</p><p></p><p>Good luck and keep us informed! </p><p>Steve</p><p></p><p>[ 07-19-2002: Message edited by: Steve Shelp ]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Steve Shelp, post: 22802, member: 22"] Garrum, I've never used the PAM method but know of others that have. Shoe polish works also. The theroy is that this stuff is a thinner coating on your barreled action so the end result should be better fit. Me for hunting guns when using Acraglass, I've always stuck to the supplied release agents and some vaseline on the screws and threads, with clay to fill in all voids in the action. Now that you have it bedded, is the barrel floated? Some say to bed the first few inches and all sorts of various ways. But my theroy goes like this... if NOTHING is touching the barrel then it can't have any pressure points after heating up or pressure on the forearm while firing. So I always float a Remington barrel 100% with clearance on the front of the recoil lug also. This has always worked for me. Good job taking this on yourself. As you can see it's not that difficult and your gun can only be better. If it's worse after the bedding job, then it was done wrong and you'll learn something. Plus Remington's are probably the easiest to start with for the first bedding job. H4831SC is the short cut version of the old standby H4831. They advertise it as interchangeable between them. But as usual the typical safety standards apply when changing a component. But to say SC is better than the standard or vice-versa, I've never seen any evidence. I have both types and shoot both in various rifles. Good luck and keep us informed! Steve [ 07-19-2002: Message edited by: Steve Shelp ] [/QUOTE]
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