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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
For Switch-Barrel Guns, How Do You Maintain Accurate Scope Zero?
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<blockquote data-quote="jda2631" data-source="post: 1446209" data-attributes="member: 23675"><p>If using a Savage, like stated in your first post, i would recommend loctiting the nut to the barrel at the proper headspace and use witness marks. Put the barrel on and test fit, once head space is correct. Back off the barrel nut and add some loctite to the threads and torque nut back down, and of course check again to make sure headspace is still correct. I have also seen someone drill a hole in the barrel nut and use a set screw to "attach" the nut to the barrel. Then put a small witness mark on your action somewhere (could put it on the bottom of the action if you don't want to see it) and put one on the barrel nut as well that matches up. Now, the barrel will act like a shouldered barrel with the nut loctited on, would just need to torque it to where the witness marks match up the next time you put that barrel on. The POI of that barrel should be very close each time its put on. And just do that for each barrel you have, adds a little cost since you need a different barrel nut for each barrel.</p><p></p><p>As for scope, the best option I have seen for this is with the Vortex Razor Gen II or AMG. With their "infinitely adjustable zero". You would just need to log where each barrel is zeroed on the circular dial of the turret (the piece you turn to zero the scope).</p><p></p><p>To switch a barrel, you take the old one off, torque the new one down to the witness mark previously made (it will be headspaced correctly but you still need to check to verify!), check log to see where this scope is zeroed, and move the dial to the correct location.</p><p></p><p>This system isn't perfect, but its going to get you to be very very close to being zeroed after a barrel swap with minimal time and effort (and ammo).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jda2631, post: 1446209, member: 23675"] If using a Savage, like stated in your first post, i would recommend loctiting the nut to the barrel at the proper headspace and use witness marks. Put the barrel on and test fit, once head space is correct. Back off the barrel nut and add some loctite to the threads and torque nut back down, and of course check again to make sure headspace is still correct. I have also seen someone drill a hole in the barrel nut and use a set screw to "attach" the nut to the barrel. Then put a small witness mark on your action somewhere (could put it on the bottom of the action if you don't want to see it) and put one on the barrel nut as well that matches up. Now, the barrel will act like a shouldered barrel with the nut loctited on, would just need to torque it to where the witness marks match up the next time you put that barrel on. The POI of that barrel should be very close each time its put on. And just do that for each barrel you have, adds a little cost since you need a different barrel nut for each barrel. As for scope, the best option I have seen for this is with the Vortex Razor Gen II or AMG. With their "infinitely adjustable zero". You would just need to log where each barrel is zeroed on the circular dial of the turret (the piece you turn to zero the scope). To switch a barrel, you take the old one off, torque the new one down to the witness mark previously made (it will be headspaced correctly but you still need to check to verify!), check log to see where this scope is zeroed, and move the dial to the correct location. This system isn't perfect, but its going to get you to be very very close to being zeroed after a barrel swap with minimal time and effort (and ammo). [/QUOTE]
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For Switch-Barrel Guns, How Do You Maintain Accurate Scope Zero?
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