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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
First loads after annealing, no neck tension
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<blockquote data-quote="Eaglet" data-source="post: 365399" data-attributes="member: 3756"><p><strong><span style="color: blue"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">From 6mmBR:</span></span></strong></p><p><span style="color: blue"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'">If cases are heated to about 600 degrees (F) for one hour, they will be thoroughly annealed--head and body included. That is, they will be ruined. (For a temperature comparison, pure lead melts at 621.3 degrees F).</span></span></p><p><span style="color: blue"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'">The critical time and temperature at which the grain structure reforms into something suitable for case necks is <strong><u>662 degrees (F) for some 15 minutes</u></strong>. A higher temperature, <strong>say <u>from 750 to 800 degrees, will do the same job in a few seconds</u></strong>. If brass is allowed to reach temperatures higher than this (regardless of the time), it will be made irretrievably and irrevocably too soft.</span></span></p><p><span style="color: blue"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'">Brass will begin to glow a faint orange at about 950 degrees (F). Even if the heating is stopped at a couple of hundred degrees below this temperature, the damage has been done--it will be too soft. From this discussion we can see that there are four considerations concerning time and temperature:</span></span></p><p><span style="color: blue"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'">1. Due to conduction, the amount of heat necessary to sufficiently anneal the case neck is great enough to ruin the rest of the case.</span></span></p><p><span style="color: blue"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'">2. If the case necks are exposed to heat for a sufficient period of time, a lower temperature can be used.</span></span></p><p><span style="color: blue"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'">3. <strong><u>The longer the case necks are exposed to heat, the greater the possibility that too much heat will be conducted into the body and head, thereby ruining the cases.</u></strong></span></span></p><p><span style="color: blue"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'">4. <strong><u>The higher the temperature, the less time the case necks will be exposed to heat, and there will be insufficient time for heat to be conducted into the body and head</u></strong>.</span></span></p><p> </p><p><strong><span style="color: maroon"><span style="font-family: 'Arial'">From Varmint Al Website:</span></span></strong></p><p><span style="color: maroon"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">When the neck just becomes a visible dull red (about 750°F), I drop the case in the bowl of water. The neck and most of the shoulder are now stress free in an annealed condition and my case neck is in the "like new" condition. Do not anneal the necks in a lighted room. You won't be able to detect the dull red color and by the time you see red, the brass is already too hot. This burns out the zinc, ruining the brass. <strong><em>Caution:</em></strong> <strong><em>Do not anneal any other part of the case. An annealed case head does not have enough strength to support the high gas pressures and would probably rupture.</em></strong> After annealing, I put the cases in a bowl and dry them with a hair drier. Don't get them so hot that you can't pick them up. I blow dry them and wait 30 minutes or so and give them another blow dry. If you are more patient, you can let them air dry overnight.</span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: green"><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">(I also found this one)</span></span></span></p><p><strong><span style="color: green"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'">From 24 hrs Camp Fire:</span></span></strong></p><p><span style="color: green"><span style="font-family: 'Verdana'">When the brass around the mouth reaches a temperature of about 660° to 665° Fahrenheit (about 350° Celsius, which equals 662° Fahrenheit), its surface becomes light blue — and this is as hot as you want to let it get. If you let the color run too far toward the other end of the case, you can ruin the head by making it too soft. If you let the color on the neck go beyond light blue, and the shine disappears, you're on the thin edge of ruining the case, and you may already have gone too far. </span></span></p><p><span style="color: green"><span style="font-family: 'Verdana'">If you let the case get red, it's a goner. Ignore published "expert" (but totally wrong) advice that tells you to heat it red-hot. Squeeze the mouth with pliers, and you'll see how soft it is. Remember two things: shine and light blue. Anything further is too much — and even these, too far below the shoulder, mean too much heat. </span></span></p><p><span style="color: green"><span style="font-family: 'Verdana'">But depending on getting the color just right is too loose and iffy to suit me. I prefer and recommend relying on something more dependable than personal color perception. The most reliable case thermometer I know is a 650° or 660° F temperature-sensitive crayon (called a "temp stick," usually). More on this in a bit. </span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: black">A look to my annealed brass, may not look the greatest but they did shoot awesomely!</span></p><p> </p><p><img src="http://i25.tinypic.com/166n291.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Eaglet, post: 365399, member: 3756"] [B][COLOR=blue][FONT=Times New Roman]From 6mmBR:[/FONT][/COLOR][/B] [COLOR=blue][FONT=Arial]If cases are heated to about 600 degrees (F) for one hour, they will be thoroughly annealed--head and body included. That is, they will be ruined. (For a temperature comparison, pure lead melts at 621.3 degrees F).[/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=blue][FONT=Arial]The critical time and temperature at which the grain structure reforms into something suitable for case necks is [B][U]662 degrees (F) for some 15 minutes[/U][/B]. A higher temperature, [B]say [U]from 750 to 800 degrees, will do the same job in a few seconds[/U][/B]. If brass is allowed to reach temperatures higher than this (regardless of the time), it will be made irretrievably and irrevocably too soft.[/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=blue][FONT=Arial]Brass will begin to glow a faint orange at about 950 degrees (F). Even if the heating is stopped at a couple of hundred degrees below this temperature, the damage has been done--it will be too soft. From this discussion we can see that there are four considerations concerning time and temperature:[/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=blue][FONT=Arial]1. Due to conduction, the amount of heat necessary to sufficiently anneal the case neck is great enough to ruin the rest of the case.[/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=blue][FONT=Arial]2. If the case necks are exposed to heat for a sufficient period of time, a lower temperature can be used.[/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=blue][FONT=Arial]3. [B][U]The longer the case necks are exposed to heat, the greater the possibility that too much heat will be conducted into the body and head, thereby ruining the cases.[/U][/B][/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=blue][FONT=Arial]4. [B][U]The higher the temperature, the less time the case necks will be exposed to heat, and there will be insufficient time for heat to be conducted into the body and head[/U][/B].[/FONT][/COLOR] [B][COLOR=maroon][FONT=Arial]From Varmint Al Website:[/FONT][/COLOR][/B] [COLOR=maroon][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]When the neck just becomes a visible dull red (about 750°F), I drop the case in the bowl of water. The neck and most of the shoulder are now stress free in an annealed condition and my case neck is in the "like new" condition. Do not anneal the necks in a lighted room. You won't be able to detect the dull red color and by the time you see red, the brass is already too hot. This burns out the zinc, ruining the brass. [B][I]Caution:[/I][/B] [B][I]Do not anneal any other part of the case. An annealed case head does not have enough strength to support the high gas pressures and would probably rupture.[/I][/B] After annealing, I put the cases in a bowl and dry them with a hair drier. Don't get them so hot that you can't pick them up. I blow dry them and wait 30 minutes or so and give them another blow dry. If you are more patient, you can let them air dry overnight.[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] [COLOR=green][SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman](I also found this one)[/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR] [B][COLOR=green][FONT=Times New Roman]From 24 hrs Camp Fire:[/FONT][/COLOR][/B] [COLOR=green][FONT=Verdana]When the brass around the mouth reaches a temperature of about 660° to 665° Fahrenheit (about 350° Celsius, which equals 662° Fahrenheit), its surface becomes light blue — and this is as hot as you want to let it get. If you let the color run too far toward the other end of the case, you can ruin the head by making it too soft. If you let the color on the neck go beyond light blue, and the shine disappears, you're on the thin edge of ruining the case, and you may already have gone too far. [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=green][FONT=Verdana]If you let the case get red, it's a goner. Ignore published “expert” (but totally wrong) advice that tells you to heat it red-hot. Squeeze the mouth with pliers, and you'll see how soft it is. Remember two things: shine and light blue. Anything further is too much — and even these, too far below the shoulder, mean too much heat. [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=green][FONT=Verdana]But depending on getting the color just right is too loose and iffy to suit me. I prefer and recommend relying on something more dependable than personal color perception. The most reliable case thermometer I know is a 650° or 660° F temperature-sensitive crayon (called a “temp stick,” usually). More on this in a bit. [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=black]A look to my annealed brass, may not look the greatest but they did shoot awesomely![/COLOR] [IMG]http://i25.tinypic.com/166n291.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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Reloading
First loads after annealing, no neck tension
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