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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
First loads after annealing, no neck tension
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<blockquote data-quote="Pdvdh" data-source="post: 365302" data-attributes="member: 4191"><p>The welders sticks are not easy to use. Brownells sells the liquid that is painted on the case and turns color when the case reaches the correct temperature. Do a few with the painted case shoulders and figure out the time required for the neck-shoulder to reach the proper temperature in 'your' flame. Then just heat the remainder of the cases for the determined length of time - keeping the flame length constant throughout the annealing process. </p><p></p><p>I was too cheap to buy the liquid color changing paint. The stuff is not cheap. I used the cheapo welders stick, and it was just enough better than worthless to figure out how long to keep the flame applied to my brass cases. I agree the liquid paint applied to the cases is the better way to go.</p><p></p><p>Welder's temperature sensing sticks - just a little better than worthless.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Pdvdh, post: 365302, member: 4191"] The welders sticks are not easy to use. Brownells sells the liquid that is painted on the case and turns color when the case reaches the correct temperature. Do a few with the painted case shoulders and figure out the time required for the neck-shoulder to reach the proper temperature in 'your' flame. Then just heat the remainder of the cases for the determined length of time - keeping the flame length constant throughout the annealing process. I was too cheap to buy the liquid color changing paint. The stuff is not cheap. I used the cheapo welders stick, and it was just enough better than worthless to figure out how long to keep the flame applied to my brass cases. I agree the liquid paint applied to the cases is the better way to go. Welder's temperature sensing sticks - just a little better than worthless. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
First loads after annealing, no neck tension
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