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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
First focal plain vs second focal plain
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<blockquote data-quote="KY_Windage" data-source="post: 1820922" data-attributes="member: 108082"><p>Yup, exactly. If it is a long enough shot for me to have to worry about correcting, I am going to RF it, then look at my card (taped to my stock) for the amount of correction needed for that distance. That is the same whether you are shooting FFP or SFP.</p><p></p><p>Then I reach up and dial what my card said. Takes about 3 seconds. RF'ing and checking the card took 20 - 30 seconds, so the 3 - 5 seconds to dial is not a big deal.</p><p></p><p>Now I just have to put the + on the heart. I don't have to remember whether i need to be holding 5 or 7 hashmarks over, and trying to count hashmarks down to the right one, and then not losIng the count while preparing to take the shot.</p><p></p><p>The FFP guy has to keep counting hashmarks to be sure he is on the right one. No thanks.</p><p></p><p>IF there is more wind than I want to "Kentucky," I merely need to crank my scope up to max power, then my windage hashmarks are correct, and I will use them, rather than dialing windage. If the animal is far enough away that I have to be worrying about how many MOA to hold over him, using the scope at max power is not a problem. Or I can just leave my scope at half of synched power -- if my scope is correct at 22 power, I can just leave it at 11 and know to double whatever my reticle shows, i. e., if I want to hold over 4 moa, I use the 2 moa mark.</p><p></p><p>I dislike trying to scan for game with my scope on low power with an FFP scope. It creates a little ball of mess right in the middle of my picture. My SFP stays big and spread out, and out of the way. Everybody talks about the difficulty of seeing the FFP reticle at low power, but that doesn't bother me. It is the mess in the middle when I am searching for game at low power than bugs me.</p><p></p><p>FFP is great for the PRS games but that's it, as far as I'm concerned. HOWEVER, whatever floats your boat.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="KY_Windage, post: 1820922, member: 108082"] Yup, exactly. If it is a long enough shot for me to have to worry about correcting, I am going to RF it, then look at my card (taped to my stock) for the amount of correction needed for that distance. That is the same whether you are shooting FFP or SFP. Then I reach up and dial what my card said. Takes about 3 seconds. RF'ing and checking the card took 20 - 30 seconds, so the 3 - 5 seconds to dial is not a big deal. Now I just have to put the + on the heart. I don't have to remember whether i need to be holding 5 or 7 hashmarks over, and trying to count hashmarks down to the right one, and then not losIng the count while preparing to take the shot. The FFP guy has to keep counting hashmarks to be sure he is on the right one. No thanks. IF there is more wind than I want to "Kentucky," I merely need to crank my scope up to max power, then my windage hashmarks are correct, and I will use them, rather than dialing windage. If the animal is far enough away that I have to be worrying about how many MOA to hold over him, using the scope at max power is not a problem. Or I can just leave my scope at half of synched power -- if my scope is correct at 22 power, I can just leave it at 11 and know to double whatever my reticle shows, i. e., if I want to hold over 4 moa, I use the 2 moa mark. I dislike trying to scan for game with my scope on low power with an FFP scope. It creates a little ball of mess right in the middle of my picture. My SFP stays big and spread out, and out of the way. Everybody talks about the difficulty of seeing the FFP reticle at low power, but that doesn't bother me. It is the mess in the middle when I am searching for game at low power than bugs me. FFP is great for the PRS games but that's it, as far as I'm concerned. HOWEVER, whatever floats your boat. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
First focal plain vs second focal plain
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