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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
First ever pillar and bedding job / Savage 111 Trophy Hunter
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<blockquote data-quote="Hired Gun" data-source="post: 1196396" data-attributes="member: 1290"><p>Doing your own gun work can be very rewarding. </p><p> </p><p>Tips on bedding:</p><p> </p><p>I like to bolt the pillars directly to the action to be sure they are up tight where they will be once the action is torqued down. </p><p> </p><p>Second item is the amount of tape and where it is. It is placing a lot of stress on the action that will applied directly to the action when it released and the action bolted down. This is not desirable. It only takes minimal pressure centered at the rear tang or in the case of a Savage over the rear bridge to hold it down and up front where the barrel is supported on tape to keep it centered in the barrel channel. The rear tie down can be over the bolt drawn back or a wood dowel that fits in the action. Just keep the tension to a minimum. No pressure whatsoever is acceptable from the stock upward high centering the action or from the outside bending it down. It only takes about 2 pounds of pressure to measurably bend a barreled action supported at the ends.</p><p> </p><p>Third point: I want no bedding or anything touching the barrel anywhere. The front of the lug is good if you don't mind it being hard to remove from the stock. Most guys don't like the front of the lug tight but I believe it helps with accuracy. It's okay if epoxy oozes out under the barrel while bedding; just machine it out during the clean up.</p><p> </p><p>I do like it down the sides for appearance but don't believe it adds anything or hurts anything. </p><p> </p><p>I would skip the tape on the outside of the stock. I prefer to just fully clean up the top edge while the bedding is wet with q-tips. Same for the play dough. That stuff is hard to remove. I use paraffin wax to cover the holes in the steel and use it for my release agent. Then just a little heat from a propane torch or heat gun and it runs right out of the holes and unless you are coating it the wax job on the metal can stay. I don't try to clean up anything inside until it's cured. If you smear it into the crevices it just sticks worse where if big thick globs are just barely touching they are much easier to remove. I like to butter up the stock with enough to do the job leaving it high in the center so it squeezes from the center outward and then butter up the action to ensure their are no air pockets in the finished product. </p><p> </p><p>Lastly, I would also suggest Marine Tex grey. It's a lot easier to work with and is a very durable product for bedding with some of the least amount shrinkage over time. <u><a href="http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/02/what-are-the-best-bedding-materials-speedy-speaks/" target="_blank">What Are the Best Bedding Materials? Speedy Speaks « Daily Bulletin</a></u></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hired Gun, post: 1196396, member: 1290"] Doing your own gun work can be very rewarding. Tips on bedding: I like to bolt the pillars directly to the action to be sure they are up tight where they will be once the action is torqued down. Second item is the amount of tape and where it is. It is placing a lot of stress on the action that will applied directly to the action when it released and the action bolted down. This is not desirable. It only takes minimal pressure centered at the rear tang or in the case of a Savage over the rear bridge to hold it down and up front where the barrel is supported on tape to keep it centered in the barrel channel. The rear tie down can be over the bolt drawn back or a wood dowel that fits in the action. Just keep the tension to a minimum. No pressure whatsoever is acceptable from the stock upward high centering the action or from the outside bending it down. It only takes about 2 pounds of pressure to measurably bend a barreled action supported at the ends. Third point: I want no bedding or anything touching the barrel anywhere. The front of the lug is good if you don't mind it being hard to remove from the stock. Most guys don't like the front of the lug tight but I believe it helps with accuracy. It's okay if epoxy oozes out under the barrel while bedding; just machine it out during the clean up. I do like it down the sides for appearance but don't believe it adds anything or hurts anything. I would skip the tape on the outside of the stock. I prefer to just fully clean up the top edge while the bedding is wet with q-tips. Same for the play dough. That stuff is hard to remove. I use paraffin wax to cover the holes in the steel and use it for my release agent. Then just a little heat from a propane torch or heat gun and it runs right out of the holes and unless you are coating it the wax job on the metal can stay. I don't try to clean up anything inside until it's cured. If you smear it into the crevices it just sticks worse where if big thick globs are just barely touching they are much easier to remove. I like to butter up the stock with enough to do the job leaving it high in the center so it squeezes from the center outward and then butter up the action to ensure their are no air pockets in the finished product. Lastly, I would also suggest Marine Tex grey. It's a lot easier to work with and is a very durable product for bedding with some of the least amount shrinkage over time. [U][URL="http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/02/what-are-the-best-bedding-materials-speedy-speaks/"]What Are the Best Bedding Materials? Speedy Speaks « Daily Bulletin[/URL][/U] [/QUOTE]
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First ever pillar and bedding job / Savage 111 Trophy Hunter
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