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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
First elk hunt. Leaning toward Tikka
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<blockquote data-quote="SnowbirdUT" data-source="post: 1929763" data-attributes="member: 88029"><p>The Elk in the photo below was taken in Utah with a 30-06 at 150 yards.</p><p></p><p>I don't recommend a new rifle to shoot beyond 400 Yards unless you want another project and have the time to develop a rifle to shoot accurately beyond 400 yards. Save your money and get some good gear for your trip such as new binoculars. </p><p></p><p>Lots of good advice in this thread. A super light magnum rifle is terrible to shoot without a muzzle break. My first 300 RUM was light and didn't have a break and the barrel twist was too slow. I couldn't shoot it without lacrosse shoulder pads. I rebuilt it several times. I've taken game with that rifle at just short of 1000 yards, however, the rebuild process and load development took years.</p><p></p><p>Optics are important. However, I wouldn't focus on "glass". You should consider a first focal plane scope so you can dial in your drop. Holding over works but much less certain as distance increases. I also recommend a good rangefinder that will automatically calculate and display the ballistic solution.</p><p></p><p>One of the threads above mentioned that shooting elk at distance is much more work. That is for sure true but it sounds like you have an outfitter. They can do most of the work.</p><p></p><p>If you are going to build a new rifle, I recommend using the heaviest bullet you can and choose a case with enough capacity so you can achieve aMV > 2,900 fps. Use the Berger twist rate calculator on line to make sure you get a barrel with a fast enough twist. I use a 230 gr bullet in my 300 RUM and 170 gr bullet in my 270 WSM. Both rifles are good on Elk and Mule deer >> 500 yards. I have worked with friends to develop LR hunting rifles in 300 WSM and 300 WIN Mag and neither case had sufficient case capacity to realistically use heavier bullets. The 300 WM had a MV of 2700 ish fps with a 215 grain bullet. The 300 WM works fine but is outperformed by my 270 WSM at distances > 600 yards.</p><p></p><p>All of the above suggests hand loads. You can buy ammo for a particular rifle from companies like Gunworks, but that can get very expensive. If you don't already hand load, that is adds additional time on this project.</p><p></p><p>Have fun in Montana!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SnowbirdUT, post: 1929763, member: 88029"] The Elk in the photo below was taken in Utah with a 30-06 at 150 yards. I don’t recommend a new rifle to shoot beyond 400 Yards unless you want another project and have the time to develop a rifle to shoot accurately beyond 400 yards. Save your money and get some good gear for your trip such as new binoculars. Lots of good advice in this thread. A super light magnum rifle is terrible to shoot without a muzzle break. My first 300 RUM was light and didn’t have a break and the barrel twist was too slow. I couldn’t shoot it without lacrosse shoulder pads. I rebuilt it several times. I’ve taken game with that rifle at just short of 1000 yards, however, the rebuild process and load development took years. Optics are important. However, I wouldn’t focus on “glass”. You should consider a first focal plane scope so you can dial in your drop. Holding over works but much less certain as distance increases. I also recommend a good rangefinder that will automatically calculate and display the ballistic solution. One of the threads above mentioned that shooting elk at distance is much more work. That is for sure true but it sounds like you have an outfitter. They can do most of the work. If you are going to build a new rifle, I recommend using the heaviest bullet you can and choose a case with enough capacity so you can achieve aMV > 2,900 fps. Use the Berger twist rate calculator on line to make sure you get a barrel with a fast enough twist. I use a 230 gr bullet in my 300 RUM and 170 gr bullet in my 270 WSM. Both rifles are good on Elk and Mule deer >> 500 yards. I have worked with friends to develop LR hunting rifles in 300 WSM and 300 WIN Mag and neither case had sufficient case capacity to realistically use heavier bullets. The 300 WM had a MV of 2700 ish fps with a 215 grain bullet. The 300 WM works fine but is outperformed by my 270 WSM at distances > 600 yards. All of the above suggests hand loads. You can buy ammo for a particular rifle from companies like Gunworks, but that can get very expensive. If you don’t already hand load, that is adds additional time on this project. Have fun in Montana! [/QUOTE]
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First elk hunt. Leaning toward Tikka
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