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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Firearm reconditioning: How to remove rusty spots WITHOUT removing any of the blue?
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<blockquote data-quote="Max Heat" data-source="post: 649174" data-attributes="member: 43153"><p><strong>Re: Firearm reconditioning: How to remove rusty spots WITHOUT removing any of the bl</strong></p><p></p><p>Shipping them out to be professionally reconditioned would be way too ambitious (I guess expensive is what I REALLY mean) of an undertaking for me to consider. So going "cold" on the blue is my only option at this time. Is there a particular "bottled" brand of blueing that is better (more potent concentration) than the others? The stuff that I have now seems to be kind of watered-down, or something. I'd like to try something that is more highly concentrated. And for improving the way it looks when done, I have found that it is better NOT to use any rust-stripper. The more of the original blue that remains on the metal, the better. </p><p></p><p>I guess the moral here is to not allow the condition of the firearms to degrade in the first place. But dehumidifying my safe doesn't seem to be working out very well so far. After placing an EV-500 (supposed to be good for 500 cubic feet) in my 8 cubic foot safe a few days ago, I thought the humidity level would be kept at near zero, with the unit only needing recharging every other month or less. But when I checked yesterday, the humidity gauge in the safe read 55%. After waving the gauge around outside of the safe, it also read 55%. The crystals are blue, so I'm not sure why the humidity inside of the safe isn't lower. I have installed a seal around the doorway opening, but I have not sealed up the 2 lag-bolt holes in the bottom. Could that be the problem?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Max Heat, post: 649174, member: 43153"] [b]Re: Firearm reconditioning: How to remove rusty spots WITHOUT removing any of the bl[/b] Shipping them out to be professionally reconditioned would be way too ambitious (I guess expensive is what I REALLY mean) of an undertaking for me to consider. So going "cold" on the blue is my only option at this time. Is there a particular "bottled" brand of blueing that is better (more potent concentration) than the others? The stuff that I have now seems to be kind of watered-down, or something. I'd like to try something that is more highly concentrated. And for improving the way it looks when done, I have found that it is better NOT to use any rust-stripper. The more of the original blue that remains on the metal, the better. I guess the moral here is to not allow the condition of the firearms to degrade in the first place. But dehumidifying my safe doesn't seem to be working out very well so far. After placing an EV-500 (supposed to be good for 500 cubic feet) in my 8 cubic foot safe a few days ago, I thought the humidity level would be kept at near zero, with the unit only needing recharging every other month or less. But when I checked yesterday, the humidity gauge in the safe read 55%. After waving the gauge around outside of the safe, it also read 55%. The crystals are blue, so I'm not sure why the humidity inside of the safe isn't lower. I have installed a seal around the doorway opening, but I have not sealed up the 2 lag-bolt holes in the bottom. Could that be the problem? [/QUOTE]
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Firearm reconditioning: How to remove rusty spots WITHOUT removing any of the blue?
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