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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Finer Points of Reloading
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<blockquote data-quote="SteveBurton" data-source="post: 2326104" data-attributes="member: 59541"><p>Everyone tweaks their process to fit what they need. Keep trying different methods until you find what works best for <strong>you</strong>. I don't reload in volume and enjoy the process so mine is a little more labor intensive than some.</p><p></p><p>1)Decap fired rounds with a Lee Universal Decapper</p><p>2)Clean brass with SS media, warm water and Lemi Shine for 30 minutes. (Don't tumble too long as it really dings up the mouth)</p><p>3)Rinse with clean tap water</p><p>4)Dry in dehydrator</p><p>5)Anneal (I anneal after every firing)</p><p>6)Full length resize with neck bushing die and Imperial sizing wax. Neck bushing is 0.004-0.005" smaller than loaded round. (I've been using Redding dies and Titanium bushings)</p><p>7)Clean sized brass in corn cob media to remove lube</p><p>8)Trim to length, chamfer and debur</p><p>9)Inspect inside of brass and primer pockets for any left over media or brass shavings</p><p>10)Set neck tension with a mandrel to 0.002" under. (I dip the necks in Redding dry neck lube first and only wipe off the outside of the case after sizing. This leaves the dry lube inside the neck to help with bullet seating and prevent welding.)</p><p></p><p>-Shoulders are bumped 0.001-0.002"</p><p></p><p>-Primer pockets and flash holes only get worked during initial brass prep. Quality brass like Lapua and ADG only get a visual inspection as they are usually good. Even the newer Hornady brass has been impressing me with primer pockets.</p><p></p><p>-I use a 21 Century hand primer so I set my primers 0.003" lower than the base(head). This is just to make sure they are below flush. I have not seen any change by doing this. When I measure a primer pocket in Lapua brass, it is 0.027". When I measure primers, they are 0.027". I don't really want to be crushing primers too much.</p><p></p><p>Here is a good video explaining how to easily get the correct shoulder bump. I also use the Redding shellholder set. This allows me to use the same die for multiple rifles with the same cartridge.</p><p></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldtbsym650k" target="_blank"><strong>How to size a case and set head space</strong></a></span></p><p></p><p><span style="color: #000000">I would suggest taking a day, grab a drink and sit in front of your computer to binge watch these YouTube channels. Not all of the videos will be relevant to your needs but there is a lot of good information.</span></p><p><span style="color: #000000"></span></p><p><span style="color: #000000"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/c/BoltActionReloading" target="_blank"><strong>Bolt Action Reloading</strong></a></span></p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/c/ErikCortina/videos" target="_blank"><strong>Erik Cortina - Pro Shooter</strong></a></p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/c/FClassJohn/videos" target="_blank"><strong>F-Class John</strong></a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SteveBurton, post: 2326104, member: 59541"] Everyone tweaks their process to fit what they need. Keep trying different methods until you find what works best for [B]you[/B]. I don't reload in volume and enjoy the process so mine is a little more labor intensive than some. 1)Decap fired rounds with a Lee Universal Decapper 2)Clean brass with SS media, warm water and Lemi Shine for 30 minutes. (Don't tumble too long as it really dings up the mouth) 3)Rinse with clean tap water 4)Dry in dehydrator 5)Anneal (I anneal after every firing) 6)Full length resize with neck bushing die and Imperial sizing wax. Neck bushing is 0.004-0.005" smaller than loaded round. (I've been using Redding dies and Titanium bushings) 7)Clean sized brass in corn cob media to remove lube 8)Trim to length, chamfer and debur 9)Inspect inside of brass and primer pockets for any left over media or brass shavings 10)Set neck tension with a mandrel to 0.002" under. (I dip the necks in Redding dry neck lube first and only wipe off the outside of the case after sizing. This leaves the dry lube inside the neck to help with bullet seating and prevent welding.) -Shoulders are bumped 0.001-0.002" -Primer pockets and flash holes only get worked during initial brass prep. Quality brass like Lapua and ADG only get a visual inspection as they are usually good. Even the newer Hornady brass has been impressing me with primer pockets. -I use a 21 Century hand primer so I set my primers 0.003" lower than the base(head). This is just to make sure they are below flush. I have not seen any change by doing this. When I measure a primer pocket in Lapua brass, it is 0.027". When I measure primers, they are 0.027". I don't really want to be crushing primers too much. Here is a good video explaining how to easily get the correct shoulder bump. I also use the Redding shellholder set. This allows me to use the same die for multiple rifles with the same cartridge. [COLOR=rgb(0, 0, 0)][URL='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldtbsym650k'][B]How to size a case and set head space[/B][/URL][/COLOR] [COLOR=#000000]I would suggest taking a day, grab a drink and sit in front of your computer to binge watch these YouTube channels. Not all of the videos will be relevant to your needs but there is a lot of good information. [URL='https://www.youtube.com/c/BoltActionReloading'][B]Bolt Action Reloading[/B][/URL][/COLOR] [URL='https://www.youtube.com/c/ErikCortina/videos'][B]Erik Cortina - Pro Shooter[/B][/URL] [URL='https://www.youtube.com/c/FClassJohn/videos'][B]F-Class John[/B][/URL] [/QUOTE]
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