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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Few newbie questions
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<blockquote data-quote="eshorebwhntr" data-source="post: 1297270" data-attributes="member: 17112"><p>Everyone has an opinion on your questions. I don't think there are any hard/fast rules that apply to what you're asking. So here are mine...</p><p></p><p>In some manuals it will list all powders in order of burn rate. From shotgun, pistol, rifle, etc....in order. Should be somewhere in a good modern manual. If not, I could send you a pic from one of mine. Reloader powders the larger the number the slower the burn. IE RL33 is slower than RL22. Some guys says when you get close in burn rate that powders can flip flop which is slower. I wouldn't stress over that too much. Just have the master list to consult. For Hodgdon and others the naming convention is not as easy to follow. I do know it by memory for Hodgdon but that's it and it's only because thats what I use and mainly what my local gun store has in stock most often.</p><p></p><p>Get a feel for how much you need to trim. In my opinion you only need to trim initially with a new lot of brass to uniform and then every 4-7 firings depending on how hot your running and how soft the brass is to keep the rounds feeding. I don't think most people could shoot the difference in a couple thousandths case length but I may be wrong. Keep it in spec and the rifle cycling. </p><p></p><p>Chamfer and debur is tricky. Definitely each time after trimming to length. Basically you don't want to scar the bearing surface of your bullets. So if your brass has burr's...chamfer. If your bullets seat nicely without binding up and scraping the hell out of the copper jackets you're fine. If you decide to go wet tumbling with SS media I've learned recently you'll need to inside neck chamfer every time. Dry tumbling it's case by case like I mentioned above.</p><p></p><p>I personally only uniform the primer pockets for depth. Never for radius. I only do it on the first reloading when the brass is new. I use to do it every reloading to clean the carbon out when I was dry tumbling. Now that I wet SS tumble I don't do it at all after the first time. </p><p></p><p>If you're fire forming an ackley improved type cartridge with hard brass (Rem or Win) then I think you need to anneal before the first shot. That brass is inherently harder and will crack easier around the neck and shoulder on standard cartridges and even worse in my experience with the ackley transition. Nosler/Norma is softer and doesn't need it for the above mentioned scenario. As far as maintaining consistency....that is a huge ball of **** to get into for discussion. Some guys are hard set that you HAVE to do it EVERY time. Some every 3 shots...etc etc. I'm not. Winchester or RP I do it initially and then every 4-5 firings just to keep the necks and shoulders from cracking. Does not affect the accuracy/consistency at all for me. Nosler or Norma I just load and go. I only anneal to save/prevent cases from cracking. Never to restore/maintain accuracy. But that's just me. I'm not saying it can't or doesn't. Just telling you what I've seen. For example my Dad's 7mm Rem Mag shoots great with Winchester brass. If it's not annealed the necks and corners of the shoulders will show cracking after the first shot. I've annealed it and it has 7 firings on it now and doing well. </p><p></p><p>Again, just my experience...take what others say, compare it, and find what works best for you.</p><p></p><p>Good luck.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="eshorebwhntr, post: 1297270, member: 17112"] Everyone has an opinion on your questions. I don't think there are any hard/fast rules that apply to what you're asking. So here are mine... In some manuals it will list all powders in order of burn rate. From shotgun, pistol, rifle, etc....in order. Should be somewhere in a good modern manual. If not, I could send you a pic from one of mine. Reloader powders the larger the number the slower the burn. IE RL33 is slower than RL22. Some guys says when you get close in burn rate that powders can flip flop which is slower. I wouldn't stress over that too much. Just have the master list to consult. For Hodgdon and others the naming convention is not as easy to follow. I do know it by memory for Hodgdon but that's it and it's only because thats what I use and mainly what my local gun store has in stock most often. Get a feel for how much you need to trim. In my opinion you only need to trim initially with a new lot of brass to uniform and then every 4-7 firings depending on how hot your running and how soft the brass is to keep the rounds feeding. I don't think most people could shoot the difference in a couple thousandths case length but I may be wrong. Keep it in spec and the rifle cycling. Chamfer and debur is tricky. Definitely each time after trimming to length. Basically you don't want to scar the bearing surface of your bullets. So if your brass has burr's...chamfer. If your bullets seat nicely without binding up and scraping the hell out of the copper jackets you're fine. If you decide to go wet tumbling with SS media I've learned recently you'll need to inside neck chamfer every time. Dry tumbling it's case by case like I mentioned above. I personally only uniform the primer pockets for depth. Never for radius. I only do it on the first reloading when the brass is new. I use to do it every reloading to clean the carbon out when I was dry tumbling. Now that I wet SS tumble I don't do it at all after the first time. If you're fire forming an ackley improved type cartridge with hard brass (Rem or Win) then I think you need to anneal before the first shot. That brass is inherently harder and will crack easier around the neck and shoulder on standard cartridges and even worse in my experience with the ackley transition. Nosler/Norma is softer and doesn't need it for the above mentioned scenario. As far as maintaining consistency....that is a huge ball of **** to get into for discussion. Some guys are hard set that you HAVE to do it EVERY time. Some every 3 shots...etc etc. I'm not. Winchester or RP I do it initially and then every 4-5 firings just to keep the necks and shoulders from cracking. Does not affect the accuracy/consistency at all for me. Nosler or Norma I just load and go. I only anneal to save/prevent cases from cracking. Never to restore/maintain accuracy. But that's just me. I'm not saying it can't or doesn't. Just telling you what I've seen. For example my Dad's 7mm Rem Mag shoots great with Winchester brass. If it's not annealed the necks and corners of the shoulders will show cracking after the first shot. I've annealed it and it has 7 firings on it now and doing well. Again, just my experience...take what others say, compare it, and find what works best for you. Good luck. [/QUOTE]
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