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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
fastest way to develop a load
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<blockquote data-quote="Greyfox" data-source="post: 871848" data-attributes="member: 10291"><p>I also agree with bounty hunters post. I owned a Model 70 Featherweight in 270 and have a few friends that own the same rifle. While I'm sure there are claims of rifles that shoot bug holes, it's basically a carry rifle that shoots .75-1.0MOA. It will generally do it do the first three shots from a cold bore that has been fouled. it tends to shoot better with forward tip pressure on the thin barrel, but the factory stock's forearm design where tip pressure is applied as well as the bedding needs to be checked. The forearm has a smallish pressure point that can cause variable pressure and effect accuracy and zero. I removed it with sandpaper and replaced it with an epoxy pad that was applied once I determined the required thickness using shims. Mine definitely shot better and maintained it's zero with pressure on the tip. The factory injection epoxy used in the lug recess and rear tang is generally ok but should be checked for good contact. Hand loading is no mystery with this rifle. Standard style hunting bullets like the Nosler Accubond/Partition in the 130-150 gr range using published powder charges of IMR4350 or H4831 should get you the accuracy/velocity potential of this rifle. Mine served me well for years with kills from 50 yards to 400 yards. Then I got bit with long range with long range shooting.....................</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Greyfox, post: 871848, member: 10291"] I also agree with bounty hunters post. I owned a Model 70 Featherweight in 270 and have a few friends that own the same rifle. While I'm sure there are claims of rifles that shoot bug holes, it's basically a carry rifle that shoots .75-1.0MOA. It will generally do it do the first three shots from a cold bore that has been fouled. it tends to shoot better with forward tip pressure on the thin barrel, but the factory stock's forearm design where tip pressure is applied as well as the bedding needs to be checked. The forearm has a smallish pressure point that can cause variable pressure and effect accuracy and zero. I removed it with sandpaper and replaced it with an epoxy pad that was applied once I determined the required thickness using shims. Mine definitely shot better and maintained it's zero with pressure on the tip. The factory injection epoxy used in the lug recess and rear tang is generally ok but should be checked for good contact. Hand loading is no mystery with this rifle. Standard style hunting bullets like the Nosler Accubond/Partition in the 130-150 gr range using published powder charges of IMR4350 or H4831 should get you the accuracy/velocity potential of this rifle. Mine served me well for years with kills from 50 yards to 400 yards. Then I got bit with long range with long range shooting..................... [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
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