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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Factory Remington Accuracy Potential
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<blockquote data-quote="Engineering101" data-source="post: 939057" data-attributes="member: 63138"><p>ickytylr</p><p> </p><p>I don't have any factory rifles that haven't been tweaked. But the tweaks are ones that everyone should do if you want to improve accuracy. Float the barrel, bed the action, etc. I still consider them stock factory rifles because they have parts that were produced by a major rifle manufacturer.</p><p> </p><p>I shot the group in the attached pic this morning with my Savage 114 Classic. That rifle has the usual tweaks plus I replaced the original 22" factory barrel with another factory barrel - a surplus 300 RUM 26" varmit contour barrel I got off Numrich's site for $95. </p><p> </p><p>I also added a competition recoil lug, epoxy bedding, magnum bolt head to mate properly with the 300 RUM barrel, and a 4 port muscle brake. Because the barrel I put on it is a "factory" barrel I still consider it a factory rifle though I have to admit that the recoil lug and brake are not factory parts.</p><p> </p><p>Another example, 2 days ago I picked up a Sako Finnbear in 7mm Rem Mag. It was in mint (really new) condition. The guy who owned it had done nothing to it and I'm not surprised he sold it to me because it can't have shot in the condition it was in. 24 hours later I had cut 1/2" off the butt and installed a new Limbsaver recoil pad, got all the copper out and floated the barrel, tweaked the trigger from 8+ pounds (it was astoundingly horrible) to about 2.5 lbs. Then I took it to the range with a couple of different loads that both grouped a tad over 1" at 200 yards. I wouldn't even shoot it until it had the basics done to it. To put it another way, a factory rifle that has been modified in no way is probably a disaster compared to what it can be with a few tweaks you can do yourself in half a day. Your rifle however seems to be shooting pretty good.</p><p> </p><p>The main thing you get in a custom rifle beyond the stuff I do to my rifles is a top tier barrel. They are really nice because they go a lot more shots before they foul. That 300 RUM I used this morning is only good for 15 shots and then you gotta clean it otherwise groups go from what you see there to the size of your fist. Top quality barrels will handle many more rounds than that. I have a Brux that picks up zero copper ever and I don't know how many shots it would take to compromise its accuracy. But as you can see that Sako Finnbear and Savage Classic are plenty accurate factory rifles. So the bottom line - there is nothing wrong with a factory rifle as long as you make sure the basics have been done to it.</p><p> </p><p>By the way, I agree with brentc. Move out to 200 yards. You don't learn near as much about your rifle at 100 yards as you do at 200. And forget the match primers. They are the same exact primers as the regular primers but they just do some statistical hand waving over the lot and call them "match".</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Engineering101, post: 939057, member: 63138"] ickytylr I don't have any factory rifles that haven't been tweaked. But the tweaks are ones that everyone should do if you want to improve accuracy. Float the barrel, bed the action, etc. I still consider them stock factory rifles because they have parts that were produced by a major rifle manufacturer. I shot the group in the attached pic this morning with my Savage 114 Classic. That rifle has the usual tweaks plus I replaced the original 22" factory barrel with another factory barrel - a surplus 300 RUM 26" varmit contour barrel I got off Numrich's site for $95. I also added a competition recoil lug, epoxy bedding, magnum bolt head to mate properly with the 300 RUM barrel, and a 4 port muscle brake. Because the barrel I put on it is a "factory" barrel I still consider it a factory rifle though I have to admit that the recoil lug and brake are not factory parts. Another example, 2 days ago I picked up a Sako Finnbear in 7mm Rem Mag. It was in mint (really new) condition. The guy who owned it had done nothing to it and I'm not surprised he sold it to me because it can't have shot in the condition it was in. 24 hours later I had cut 1/2" off the butt and installed a new Limbsaver recoil pad, got all the copper out and floated the barrel, tweaked the trigger from 8+ pounds (it was astoundingly horrible) to about 2.5 lbs. Then I took it to the range with a couple of different loads that both grouped a tad over 1" at 200 yards. I wouldn't even shoot it until it had the basics done to it. To put it another way, a factory rifle that has been modified in no way is probably a disaster compared to what it can be with a few tweaks you can do yourself in half a day. Your rifle however seems to be shooting pretty good. The main thing you get in a custom rifle beyond the stuff I do to my rifles is a top tier barrel. They are really nice because they go a lot more shots before they foul. That 300 RUM I used this morning is only good for 15 shots and then you gotta clean it otherwise groups go from what you see there to the size of your fist. Top quality barrels will handle many more rounds than that. I have a Brux that picks up zero copper ever and I don't know how many shots it would take to compromise its accuracy. But as you can see that Sako Finnbear and Savage Classic are plenty accurate factory rifles. So the bottom line - there is nothing wrong with a factory rifle as long as you make sure the basics have been done to it. By the way, I agree with brentc. Move out to 200 yards. You don't learn near as much about your rifle at 100 yards as you do at 200. And forget the match primers. They are the same exact primers as the regular primers but they just do some statistical hand waving over the lot and call them "match". [/QUOTE]
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