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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Factory barrel
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<blockquote data-quote="tobnpr" data-source="post: 1559404" data-attributes="member: 68758"><p>In the absence of a go gauge, I concur that you can do an adequate "safety check" of headspace by stripping the bolt and using factory rounds. If the bolt closes with light resistance, you can stop there. Not closing, smith time.</p><p>Closes with no resistance, add a closely-trimmed piece of cellophane packing tape (.002-.003 thick) to the casehead and try again. If you can add more than two layers before resistance on closing the bolt, the shoulder will need to be set back and chamber deepened.</p><p></p><p>Do not force the bolt when closing as it's easy to force a few thousandths with brass (even with ground/hardened gauges will give a false indication if excessive force is applied when closing the bolt). For me, ideal is when the bolt handle falls most of the way, then very light resistance to close fully into battery- as good as it'll get.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tobnpr, post: 1559404, member: 68758"] In the absence of a go gauge, I concur that you can do an adequate "safety check" of headspace by stripping the bolt and using factory rounds. If the bolt closes with light resistance, you can stop there. Not closing, smith time. Closes with no resistance, add a closely-trimmed piece of cellophane packing tape (.002-.003 thick) to the casehead and try again. If you can add more than two layers before resistance on closing the bolt, the shoulder will need to be set back and chamber deepened. Do not force the bolt when closing as it's easy to force a few thousandths with brass (even with ground/hardened gauges will give a false indication if excessive force is applied when closing the bolt). For me, ideal is when the bolt handle falls most of the way, then very light resistance to close fully into battery- as good as it'll get. [/QUOTE]
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