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<blockquote data-quote="RAT807" data-source="post: 1220679" data-attributes="member: 33244"><p>I bought a 6.5 Jap built in 1934 and it came with 3 boxes of Horandy Match ammo. After a solid inspection of the gun and ammo, I'd say the average runout was around .008. I took 5 rounds and pulled the bullets, dumped the powder, removed the decapping rod and ran the brass through a FL sizing die to true it up. I loaded the same power and bullets and set these aside.</p><p>The next 5 rounds I used a Hornady Concentricity gauge and tweaked them to less than .003 on runout.</p><p></p><p>All of these were shot over a chrono out to 100 yards with open sights and group sizes measured. </p><p>The group that was straightened shot noticeably better than the fresh out-of-the box rounds. The velocity was all over the place I guess from the neck tension being compromised, some took more work than others.</p><p>Obviously the straightened brass with even neck tension and more consistent powder between each round shot the best. The rifle shoot really well, but, the chamber is not true. Fired rounds needed a bit of work to get them back pretty straight. So, in an effort to work the brass and not affect neck tension, I seated a flat based bullet so the entire neck is supported and dropped it in the Concentricity gauge. I measured several places on the round and applied pressure to the high spots close to the brass wall, shoulder junction. Doing it this way had far less affect on neck tension. If you applied pressure over a larger area, a little here, roll the round a tad apply a bit more pressure, I had less of a chance of denting the wall. After the brass wall is rolling more consistent, I applied the last pressure at the shoulder, neck junction for the final truing of the round. So, I measure at the bullet ogive, the neck-shoulder junction and the wall-shoulder junction. I then pull the bullet and start the loading process with a FL resizing. The end results of this is 5 out of 5 hits on an 8inch steel plate at 300 meters, with open sights. It sounds like a lot of work but as you get the hang of it, it goes pretty fast.</p><p></p><p>As for factory ammo, so far the worst has been Winchester Super X in 264 Win Mag. Some of those were .022 on runout... Winchester brass is hard to straighten. Annealing will help.</p><p>Even though I use a full length sizing die, I don't push the shoulder all the way back. Just a .001 or 2 is all. I found pushing the shoulder all the way back and even cramming the press over did not help to straighten the brass on the 6.5 Jap. I can only find Lee dies for the Jap. I think my Redding FL bushing dies are pretty awesome on my other calibers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RAT807, post: 1220679, member: 33244"] I bought a 6.5 Jap built in 1934 and it came with 3 boxes of Horandy Match ammo. After a solid inspection of the gun and ammo, I'd say the average runout was around .008. I took 5 rounds and pulled the bullets, dumped the powder, removed the decapping rod and ran the brass through a FL sizing die to true it up. I loaded the same power and bullets and set these aside. The next 5 rounds I used a Hornady Concentricity gauge and tweaked them to less than .003 on runout. All of these were shot over a chrono out to 100 yards with open sights and group sizes measured. The group that was straightened shot noticeably better than the fresh out-of-the box rounds. The velocity was all over the place I guess from the neck tension being compromised, some took more work than others. Obviously the straightened brass with even neck tension and more consistent powder between each round shot the best. The rifle shoot really well, but, the chamber is not true. Fired rounds needed a bit of work to get them back pretty straight. So, in an effort to work the brass and not affect neck tension, I seated a flat based bullet so the entire neck is supported and dropped it in the Concentricity gauge. I measured several places on the round and applied pressure to the high spots close to the brass wall, shoulder junction. Doing it this way had far less affect on neck tension. If you applied pressure over a larger area, a little here, roll the round a tad apply a bit more pressure, I had less of a chance of denting the wall. After the brass wall is rolling more consistent, I applied the last pressure at the shoulder, neck junction for the final truing of the round. So, I measure at the bullet ogive, the neck-shoulder junction and the wall-shoulder junction. I then pull the bullet and start the loading process with a FL resizing. The end results of this is 5 out of 5 hits on an 8inch steel plate at 300 meters, with open sights. It sounds like a lot of work but as you get the hang of it, it goes pretty fast. As for factory ammo, so far the worst has been Winchester Super X in 264 Win Mag. Some of those were .022 on runout... Winchester brass is hard to straighten. Annealing will help. Even though I use a full length sizing die, I don't push the shoulder all the way back. Just a .001 or 2 is all. I found pushing the shoulder all the way back and even cramming the press over did not help to straighten the brass on the 6.5 Jap. I can only find Lee dies for the Jap. I think my Redding FL bushing dies are pretty awesome on my other calibers. [/QUOTE]
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